More people are able to afford digital cameras because their prices are falling but the number of characteristics is rising so it is important to be able to compare digital camera features.
The first step in being able to compare digital camera features is to decide what you want to get out of your camera. If you compare digital camera prices you will see that for shooting family snapshots you can get a good basic digital camera for under $400, while a professional model is over $2,000. When you compare digital camera features you need to know the extent of the use you are going to get out of it.
It is essential when you compare digital camera options to understand the issues of image resolution, which is measured in megapixels. Basically, the more megapixels, the higher the resolutions of the final image but you definitely need to compare digital camera images with your actual requirements. This is best done if you compare digital camera resolution with the size of the images that you want to print and you will find that a 1-mg camera can create a 3-by-5-inch (7.5 by 13 cm) photo-quality print; a 2-mg camera will make a 5-by-7-inch (13 by 18 cm) print; a 3-mg camera will make an 8-by-10-inch (20 by 25 cm) print, and a 6-mg camera will make a 9-by-13-inch (23 by 33 cm) print.
One of the other points to consider when you compare digital camera prices is to look at the complete package that is offered. Some included extras to look for when you compare digital camera packages are if the camera includes a cable for your computer and if it comes with image-editing software that works with your computer. If these are not included it is still possible for you to buy them separately but you need to allow for this when you compare digital camera prices. Another important point to consider when you compare digital camera options is to choose a camera with removable memory in addition to built-in memory.
All of the cameras that you are considering when you compare digital camera features should have an LCD screen for viewing pictures, a built-in flash, a timer, and a time/date stamp on even the most basic camera. You should also look to compare digital camera packages that have optical zoom, not digital, if you need a zoom capability and most midrange cameras should have high-quality optical zoom lenses but it is still worth checking to make sure.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/comparing-digital-camera-features.html
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Choosing A Digital Camera Printer
There are so many types of digital camera printer on offer that finding the right one for your personal and business needs can be a very daunting task. However, there are a few main points to consider when choosing a digital camera printer that will help make the process a little easier.
It isn’t necessary to have a high-resolution digital camera printer to make great pictures. The higher the printer resolution you use, the more pixels you'll need in your original image file to produce a decent size print with your digital camera printer. The actual file size (in pixels) of the image from your camera, divided by the printer resolution (in dots per inch), determines the final print size. So, if the image file size is 1,478 x 1,280 pixels, and you print the file at 163 dpi with your digital camera printer, the final print size will be 9 x 7.8 inches.
If your digital camera printer resolution is 300 dpi, then you will have a higher resolution with more dots per inch laid down on the paper but a smaller print size. It is therefore important to ensure that you have the image file size to support the resolution of your digital camera printer.
The price of a digital camera printer is lowering whilst the quality is increasing. If you choose the right digital camera printer you can have your own photo lab, greeting card designing and sign making department with just your digital camera, some software and a printer.
The aim of having a digital camera printer is to produce photographic prints that look as close to real photographic prints as possible. This type of digital camera printer was once very expensive to buy and run, but technological advancements and competitive pricing have made them much more accessible to the average buyer. Ink-jet printers are now available that can produce excellent prints and a near photo-quality printer is much easier to find for people with a small budget. You will probably want to have a digital camera printer with a scanning feature built-in. If you want to produce same-size scans of photos you don’t need scan resolutions higher than 300 samples per inch for the scanner.
Your digital camera printer should also have the same interface that you already have on your computer. So if you have USB, then get a digital camera printer with USB, a Firewire printer if you have Firewire or a SCSI printer if you have SCSI. There should be no need to buy a digital camera printer that requires a different interface to the one you already have on your computer or it will cost you more to upgrade if necessary.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/choosing-a-digital-camera-printer.html
It isn’t necessary to have a high-resolution digital camera printer to make great pictures. The higher the printer resolution you use, the more pixels you'll need in your original image file to produce a decent size print with your digital camera printer. The actual file size (in pixels) of the image from your camera, divided by the printer resolution (in dots per inch), determines the final print size. So, if the image file size is 1,478 x 1,280 pixels, and you print the file at 163 dpi with your digital camera printer, the final print size will be 9 x 7.8 inches.
If your digital camera printer resolution is 300 dpi, then you will have a higher resolution with more dots per inch laid down on the paper but a smaller print size. It is therefore important to ensure that you have the image file size to support the resolution of your digital camera printer.
The price of a digital camera printer is lowering whilst the quality is increasing. If you choose the right digital camera printer you can have your own photo lab, greeting card designing and sign making department with just your digital camera, some software and a printer.
The aim of having a digital camera printer is to produce photographic prints that look as close to real photographic prints as possible. This type of digital camera printer was once very expensive to buy and run, but technological advancements and competitive pricing have made them much more accessible to the average buyer. Ink-jet printers are now available that can produce excellent prints and a near photo-quality printer is much easier to find for people with a small budget. You will probably want to have a digital camera printer with a scanning feature built-in. If you want to produce same-size scans of photos you don’t need scan resolutions higher than 300 samples per inch for the scanner.
Your digital camera printer should also have the same interface that you already have on your computer. So if you have USB, then get a digital camera printer with USB, a Firewire printer if you have Firewire or a SCSI printer if you have SCSI. There should be no need to buy a digital camera printer that requires a different interface to the one you already have on your computer or it will cost you more to upgrade if necessary.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/choosing-a-digital-camera-printer.html
Repairing A Digital Camera
It would be ideal if you never had to use a digital camera repair service but the chances are that you will have to find one during the life of your digital camera. If you have bought your camera carefully then it should have a lengthy digital camera repair warranty. Even if your camera is still within the warranty period for digital camera repair then you still have to ensure that you meet the requirements of the warranty.
No digital camera repair warranty covers damage caused by abusing the camera or incorrect use. You also need to check what paperwork you have to send off with your digital camera repair for it to be carried out under warranty, such as the sales receipt and completed warranty card. Your warranty will provide instructions for how to obtain a digital camera repair and the procedures to follow. It is important to use a digital camera repair service authorised by the particular manufacturer of your digital camera to ensure that you do not incur any extra costs. A digital camera repair carried out under warranty will not cost you anything unless the equipment needs to be returned to the factory, in which case there are shipping charges.
One of the most frequent problems that require a camera to be sent to a digital camera repair service is a zoom lens that will not zoom, because the lens is out of alignment. This may have been caused by rough handling or some type of impact which will not be covered by the warranty. If your camera is not able to focus then it will not fire and may print out ‘system error’ or not turn on properly. It is a relatively simple process for a digital camera repair service to realign the zoom lens or reset the zoom barrel guide pins that may have been pushed out of their slots, and this will then enable the lens to focus and zoom. The cost for this form of digital camera repair will vary from service to service but it should be a relatively quick job, as long as the digital camera repair company has the correct equipment onsite. It is worth checking before you decide which digital camera repair service to use that they have the necessary equipment and expertise to carry out the repair and not have to send it away.
The best digital camera repair services have skilled digital camera repair technicians that specialize in repairing certain types and brands of cameras, hundreds of specialized tools to properly service your camera and some may also have custom test jigs to help complete repairs more effectively and efficiently.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/repairing-a-digital-camera.html
No digital camera repair warranty covers damage caused by abusing the camera or incorrect use. You also need to check what paperwork you have to send off with your digital camera repair for it to be carried out under warranty, such as the sales receipt and completed warranty card. Your warranty will provide instructions for how to obtain a digital camera repair and the procedures to follow. It is important to use a digital camera repair service authorised by the particular manufacturer of your digital camera to ensure that you do not incur any extra costs. A digital camera repair carried out under warranty will not cost you anything unless the equipment needs to be returned to the factory, in which case there are shipping charges.
One of the most frequent problems that require a camera to be sent to a digital camera repair service is a zoom lens that will not zoom, because the lens is out of alignment. This may have been caused by rough handling or some type of impact which will not be covered by the warranty. If your camera is not able to focus then it will not fire and may print out ‘system error’ or not turn on properly. It is a relatively simple process for a digital camera repair service to realign the zoom lens or reset the zoom barrel guide pins that may have been pushed out of their slots, and this will then enable the lens to focus and zoom. The cost for this form of digital camera repair will vary from service to service but it should be a relatively quick job, as long as the digital camera repair company has the correct equipment onsite. It is worth checking before you decide which digital camera repair service to use that they have the necessary equipment and expertise to carry out the repair and not have to send it away.
The best digital camera repair services have skilled digital camera repair technicians that specialize in repairing certain types and brands of cameras, hundreds of specialized tools to properly service your camera and some may also have custom test jigs to help complete repairs more effectively and efficiently.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/repairing-a-digital-camera.html
Canon Digital Camera Guide
Canon digital camera innovations have always been at the forefront of photographic innovations and their compact digital cameras package a variety of functions into a deceptively small Canon digital camera body. These are particularly attractive to a wide range of users because of their light weight, ease of use, high image quality and high functionality. Canon digital camera experts are highly experienced in camera manufacturer, leading-edge optical technology, ultra high-precision mounting technology, electronic device technology and color management technology amongst others. All of this experience and expertise is combined to produce the Canon digital camera PowerShot series and the PowerShot DIGITAL ELPH/DIGITAL IXUS series.
Throughout their continuing research, the Canon digital camera development team has collected a large amount of photographic data and also made broad statistical analyses of the frequency involved in taking photographs. This data led to the creation of the Canon digital camera Photographic Space which is a graphical database of information relating to the relationship between surrounding brightness and distance between a Canon digital camera and the subject relative to the focal length and position of the zoom lens when pictures are taken.
The Canon digital camera Photographic Space led to the development of a new scene-recognition technology called "iSAPS" (intelligent Scene Analysis based on Photographic Space) Technology. Canon digital camera iSAPS Technology analyses the scene to be photographed and makes optimal adjustments of a number of key functions, including auto-focus, before the shutter is pressed.
The Canon digital camera iSAPS Technology closely estimates the camera-to-subject distance based on the lens focal length, zoom position and surrounding brightness which guarantees the most accurate exposure and white balance settings for the overall conditions.
At the high end of the Canon digital camera range are their single-lens reflex, or SLR, cameras. The Canon digital camera company has created ultra-high-precision imaging elements and high-performance digital imaging engines so that their digital SLR cameras possess the same ease of operation as their 35mm film counterparts but produce exceptionally high-quality images.
The Canon digital camera imaging engine, or DIGIC II, creates image data from signals output from a CMOS, or complementary metal oxide semiconductor, sensor. The CMOS sensor is really the brain of any digital camera. Canon developed the Canon digital camera DIGIC II high-performance imaging engine directly due to the increasingly high resolution CMOS sensors. With the help of a high-capacity DDRS DRAM (double data rate SDRAM) as the buffer memory, the Canon digital camera DIGIC II processes high-resolution images at ultra-high speeds.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/canon-digital-camera-guide.html
How To Compare Digital Camera Prices
Digital camera prices have been constantly dropping whilst the quality and complexity of the digital cameras has been rising rapidly. People who used to only dream of owning a digital camera because of the excessive digital camera prices may now be able to afford much better cameras than they realize. In fact, digital camera prices have changed so dramatically that a 5- or 6-megapixel point-and-shoot digital camera has dropped below what a 4-megapixel camera was selling for less than a year ago.
Digital camera prices of $200-$300 are now common for good point-and-shoot digital cameras that come with an image resolution of up to 5 mega pixels and a 3X optical zoom lens. It is important to recognize what the minimum features are to expect for this range of digital camera prices. Digital camera prices between $200 and $300 should include:
* 1.3 frames per second shooting capability
* 10 to 20 scene modes
* built-in flash
* lens openings from f2.8 to f4.8
* optical viewfinder and an LCD of 1.5 to 2 inches
* optical zoom lens with a range equivalent to that of a 35-115mm lens
* rechargeable batteries
* shutter speeds of 4 seconds to 1/2000 second
* solid plastic or metal housing
* video clip capture at 320 by 240 resolution with audio
Digital camera prices can vary and it is essential to know what the most useful features are. Obviously you want to take good pictures but don’t want to pay the inflated digital camera prices that the high-end cameras have. However, your priority should be to assess which features are the most important to enable you to take the best pictures. The higher the numbers of megapixels that the cameras have, the higher the digital camera prices are but this does not necessarily guarantee better pictures.
One of the most useful features to look for in the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices for point-and-shoot picture taking is scene modes. Digital camera prices are not affected very much by having scene modes but these allow an amateur photographer to take shots such as a fireworks display and sunsets without knowing how to adjust the camera settings manually. The majority of the better digital cameras within the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices have scene mode selections available. Another feature of cameras within the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices is that they are compact and will fit in a jacket pocket.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/how-to-compare-digital-camera-prices.html
Digital camera prices of $200-$300 are now common for good point-and-shoot digital cameras that come with an image resolution of up to 5 mega pixels and a 3X optical zoom lens. It is important to recognize what the minimum features are to expect for this range of digital camera prices. Digital camera prices between $200 and $300 should include:
* 1.3 frames per second shooting capability
* 10 to 20 scene modes
* built-in flash
* lens openings from f2.8 to f4.8
* optical viewfinder and an LCD of 1.5 to 2 inches
* optical zoom lens with a range equivalent to that of a 35-115mm lens
* rechargeable batteries
* shutter speeds of 4 seconds to 1/2000 second
* solid plastic or metal housing
* video clip capture at 320 by 240 resolution with audio
Digital camera prices can vary and it is essential to know what the most useful features are. Obviously you want to take good pictures but don’t want to pay the inflated digital camera prices that the high-end cameras have. However, your priority should be to assess which features are the most important to enable you to take the best pictures. The higher the numbers of megapixels that the cameras have, the higher the digital camera prices are but this does not necessarily guarantee better pictures.
One of the most useful features to look for in the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices for point-and-shoot picture taking is scene modes. Digital camera prices are not affected very much by having scene modes but these allow an amateur photographer to take shots such as a fireworks display and sunsets without knowing how to adjust the camera settings manually. The majority of the better digital cameras within the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices have scene mode selections available. Another feature of cameras within the $200-$300 range of digital camera prices is that they are compact and will fit in a jacket pocket.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/how-to-compare-digital-camera-prices.html
Finding The Best Buy On A Digital Camera
The best buy digital camera is not necessarily the cheapest, but the one that has the best overall package for your needs. It is important to check on the various functions and accessories before you compare prices to ensure that you find the best buy digital camera. The main reason that people want to buy a digital camera is for convenience rather than using a traditional film camera and there are a lot of best buy digital camera deals available.
The first point is to find the best buy digital camera with the highest resolution you can afford which will normally be at least 2 to 3 megapixels (2 million to 3 million pixels). If you will only output pictures to a computer monitor (for viewing, Web page use or e-mail) then the best buy digital camera will be one with a 640-by 480 pixel resolution and it will provide very satisfactory results. There are very few genuine best buy digital camera packages with high-resolution and the specified resolution may only apply to software interpolation rather than the true optical resolution. To print photographs on a good (at least 720 dots per inch) color printer you will need to look for the best buy digital camera with a high resolution.
Many retailers advertise their best buy digital camera as one with a plastic lens. It is better to buy a digital camera with a 100% glass lens for the best pictures. You should also look for the best buy digital camera packages with the most RAM that you can afford. The more RAM the camera has means that it can store more pictures and does not require downloading or erasing them as often.
When you are evaluating the best buy digital camera offers you need to compare optical, as opposed to digital, zoom capabilities. This is one of the most frequently used features of most digital cameras and you need to be sure that you have the capability to take the type of close-up shots that you want to.
Another issue that needs to be considered is whether the best buy digital camera offer actually includes the accessories that you require. If you find that you are going to have to purchase additional cables and software to be able to connect your digital camera to your computer then it is not going to be the best buy digital camera that you thought it was.
Finally, ensure that you have accounted for any shipping costs before you make your final decision over which best buy digital camera you purchase. A lot of unscrupulous retailers will advertise a price for a best buy digital camera but then charge high shipping costs.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/index.html
The first point is to find the best buy digital camera with the highest resolution you can afford which will normally be at least 2 to 3 megapixels (2 million to 3 million pixels). If you will only output pictures to a computer monitor (for viewing, Web page use or e-mail) then the best buy digital camera will be one with a 640-by 480 pixel resolution and it will provide very satisfactory results. There are very few genuine best buy digital camera packages with high-resolution and the specified resolution may only apply to software interpolation rather than the true optical resolution. To print photographs on a good (at least 720 dots per inch) color printer you will need to look for the best buy digital camera with a high resolution.
Many retailers advertise their best buy digital camera as one with a plastic lens. It is better to buy a digital camera with a 100% glass lens for the best pictures. You should also look for the best buy digital camera packages with the most RAM that you can afford. The more RAM the camera has means that it can store more pictures and does not require downloading or erasing them as often.
When you are evaluating the best buy digital camera offers you need to compare optical, as opposed to digital, zoom capabilities. This is one of the most frequently used features of most digital cameras and you need to be sure that you have the capability to take the type of close-up shots that you want to.
Another issue that needs to be considered is whether the best buy digital camera offer actually includes the accessories that you require. If you find that you are going to have to purchase additional cables and software to be able to connect your digital camera to your computer then it is not going to be the best buy digital camera that you thought it was.
Finally, ensure that you have accounted for any shipping costs before you make your final decision over which best buy digital camera you purchase. A lot of unscrupulous retailers will advertise a price for a best buy digital camera but then charge high shipping costs.
http://wealthsmith.com/camera-articles/digital-camera/index.html
Digital Single Lens Reflex Cameras, what makes them special Part 1
Some estimates for total digital camera sales during 2005 exceeded 80 million units. The growth is expected to be about 8 to 10% for 2006. There is one segment of the market, however, that is growing significantly faster. This segment is the digital single lens reflex, or dSLR for short, market. While estimates vary considerably, most agree that the segment will grow much faster than any other. The growth figures range between 25% & 50% growth for 2006.
It is clear to see in the PhotoTakers forums that the dSLR market is growing. More and more we see many questions with regards to which camera should be purchased. In order to help with this, I decided to put this article together, I hope it helps.
My intent here is to help people make an informed decision when looking at cameras. I will not give you recommendations on any particular brand, rather I will try to help you understand what certain features mean and how they will affect your photography. You will then be able to decide on which features you'd like in your camera. To avoid any misconceptions of quality based on brand names, I will categorize cameras based on a price range as opposed to names like "high-end", "pro" or "entry level".
Most of what I mention applies to film and digital SLRs. For the sake of clarity and ease, I will refrain from any discussion on film in this article. In essence film and digital sensors are just two different types of photosensitive materials.
Lastly, please understand that I cannot get into a great deal of detail on every comment. It suffices to say, that if you'd like clarification on any topic you can always ask in the forums and we will gladly clear it up.
Single Lens Reflex Cameras. What are they and what makes them special?
Single Lens Reflex (SLR) cameras are given their name because of the configuration they use. SLR's configuration uses a single lens that serves two roles. First the lens is used to compose and focus the image. Once the image is composed and focused, the photographer releases the shutter to record the image on the sensor through the very same lens. This dual role is accomplished by the use of a mirror within the camera. When the photographer composes and focuses the shot, the mirror reflects the image the lens produces up into the viewfinder. When the photo is taken the mirror is lifted out of the way so the shutter can expose the sensor.
The biggest advantage with using an single lens reflex digital camera is the ability of the photographer to see exactly what the sensor will see. The SLR allows you to confirm that focus, composition and depth of field will be correct. You are able to see what the sensor will see through your viewfinder. The second, and more commonly mentioned advantage of an single lens reflex camera, is the ability to change lenses to suit your needs. You are not limited to what the manufacturer decided to put on the camera. There are other factors that are usually ignored but should not be, I've outlined a few below.
* Viewfinder: Like I said, with the Digital SLR, you see what the sensor will see. This is actually very good because it gives you a brighter and clearer display than any electronic viewfinder can ever give you. Even if the P&S cameras have a separate viewfinder they are significantly smaller than the SLR and do not display any shooting data, typically.
* Sensor Size: All digital SLRs have relatively large sensors (physical dimensions, not pixel count) when compared to P&S cameras. Compared to the largest P&S sensors, the most common dSLR sensors have almost six times the area. This significantly increases image quality. The main reason for the increase in image quality is that noise is less of a problem on larger sensors. Another benefit of larger sensors is that shallow depths of field are more attainable. This makes it easier to get the blurred background effects. Ultimately, a P&S camera with a larger pixel count than an SLR will not produce as good an image as the SLR, from an overall point of view.
* Lens Quality & options: While the lens quality on today's P&S cameras are very good, the lens quality that is available for SLRs is usually superior. Of course there are exceptions to this, but in general, this is commonly the case. As mentioned above, the ability to change lenses is an advantage. This allows you to use purpose built lenses if you'd like. For example, in a P&S camera you might have a macro capability but with the dSLR you can attach a Macro lens. There is a significant difference in image quality.
* Shutter Lag: This is the time lag between the moment one presses the shutter and the moment the camera actually takes the photo. With SLR cameras this lag is basically non-existent. It is measured in millionths of a second. With P&S cameras, it can be rather long by comparison. It can cost you the ability to get the shot.
* Dynamic Range: This is the range of brightness levels that a device can capture. Simply put, it is the darkest to lightest levels of light where you can still see details in the printed image. In general, DSLR's have a greater dynamic range than do P&S cameras.
* RAW Formats: RAW formats (each manufacturer has their own standard) are image captures where the sensor data is saved without manipulation by the camera's internal software. This leads to the best quality image you can get from a digital camera. While some P&S cameras can capture in a RAW format, generally it is not the case. All dSLRs have the ability to capture RAW formats. While it is not something everybody will be concerned with, it is something that needs to be mentioned. JPG captures, by comparison, all are processed, to some extent, in camera and are compressed.
To be fair, there are disadvantages to dSLR cameras. First are the costs involved. The dSLR camera is much higher in price. This is especially true when one begins to add lens and accessory costs to the mix. Second is weight and bulk. They are simply larger. Again add optional lenses and accessories and this bulk increases. However, if the ultimate image quality is what you are after, then the dSLR is the way to get it.
http://www.phototakers.com/articles/articles/36.html
It is clear to see in the PhotoTakers forums that the dSLR market is growing. More and more we see many questions with regards to which camera should be purchased. In order to help with this, I decided to put this article together, I hope it helps.
My intent here is to help people make an informed decision when looking at cameras. I will not give you recommendations on any particular brand, rather I will try to help you understand what certain features mean and how they will affect your photography. You will then be able to decide on which features you'd like in your camera. To avoid any misconceptions of quality based on brand names, I will categorize cameras based on a price range as opposed to names like "high-end", "pro" or "entry level".
Most of what I mention applies to film and digital SLRs. For the sake of clarity and ease, I will refrain from any discussion on film in this article. In essence film and digital sensors are just two different types of photosensitive materials.
Lastly, please understand that I cannot get into a great deal of detail on every comment. It suffices to say, that if you'd like clarification on any topic you can always ask in the forums and we will gladly clear it up.
Single Lens Reflex Cameras. What are they and what makes them special?
Single Lens Reflex (SLR) cameras are given their name because of the configuration they use. SLR's configuration uses a single lens that serves two roles. First the lens is used to compose and focus the image. Once the image is composed and focused, the photographer releases the shutter to record the image on the sensor through the very same lens. This dual role is accomplished by the use of a mirror within the camera. When the photographer composes and focuses the shot, the mirror reflects the image the lens produces up into the viewfinder. When the photo is taken the mirror is lifted out of the way so the shutter can expose the sensor.
The biggest advantage with using an single lens reflex digital camera is the ability of the photographer to see exactly what the sensor will see. The SLR allows you to confirm that focus, composition and depth of field will be correct. You are able to see what the sensor will see through your viewfinder. The second, and more commonly mentioned advantage of an single lens reflex camera, is the ability to change lenses to suit your needs. You are not limited to what the manufacturer decided to put on the camera. There are other factors that are usually ignored but should not be, I've outlined a few below.
* Viewfinder: Like I said, with the Digital SLR, you see what the sensor will see. This is actually very good because it gives you a brighter and clearer display than any electronic viewfinder can ever give you. Even if the P&S cameras have a separate viewfinder they are significantly smaller than the SLR and do not display any shooting data, typically.
* Sensor Size: All digital SLRs have relatively large sensors (physical dimensions, not pixel count) when compared to P&S cameras. Compared to the largest P&S sensors, the most common dSLR sensors have almost six times the area. This significantly increases image quality. The main reason for the increase in image quality is that noise is less of a problem on larger sensors. Another benefit of larger sensors is that shallow depths of field are more attainable. This makes it easier to get the blurred background effects. Ultimately, a P&S camera with a larger pixel count than an SLR will not produce as good an image as the SLR, from an overall point of view.
* Lens Quality & options: While the lens quality on today's P&S cameras are very good, the lens quality that is available for SLRs is usually superior. Of course there are exceptions to this, but in general, this is commonly the case. As mentioned above, the ability to change lenses is an advantage. This allows you to use purpose built lenses if you'd like. For example, in a P&S camera you might have a macro capability but with the dSLR you can attach a Macro lens. There is a significant difference in image quality.
* Shutter Lag: This is the time lag between the moment one presses the shutter and the moment the camera actually takes the photo. With SLR cameras this lag is basically non-existent. It is measured in millionths of a second. With P&S cameras, it can be rather long by comparison. It can cost you the ability to get the shot.
* Dynamic Range: This is the range of brightness levels that a device can capture. Simply put, it is the darkest to lightest levels of light where you can still see details in the printed image. In general, DSLR's have a greater dynamic range than do P&S cameras.
* RAW Formats: RAW formats (each manufacturer has their own standard) are image captures where the sensor data is saved without manipulation by the camera's internal software. This leads to the best quality image you can get from a digital camera. While some P&S cameras can capture in a RAW format, generally it is not the case. All dSLRs have the ability to capture RAW formats. While it is not something everybody will be concerned with, it is something that needs to be mentioned. JPG captures, by comparison, all are processed, to some extent, in camera and are compressed.
To be fair, there are disadvantages to dSLR cameras. First are the costs involved. The dSLR camera is much higher in price. This is especially true when one begins to add lens and accessory costs to the mix. Second is weight and bulk. They are simply larger. Again add optional lenses and accessories and this bulk increases. However, if the ultimate image quality is what you are after, then the dSLR is the way to get it.
http://www.phototakers.com/articles/articles/36.html
All the features of your digital camera
Your digital cameras features and what they mean to you.
Price while obvious and not really a feature, it is worth mentioning for two reasons. First, it differentiates the cameras in this segment. Second, it is a significant investment.
With respect to the first point, many of the features listed here are available on many or all SLRs to some degree. However, realize that a $5,000 camera and a $1,000 camera cannot be compared head to head. The main reason is not the sensor. It is a range of details that come into play. Amongst those is build quality, convenience features, and performance/speed.
On the second point, since the price is high, it is not common for people to change dSLR cameras yearly. Your decision is one you will work with for some time. Spending a little time reading this can help.
Sensor Megapixels: This is the single most commonly quoted spec in a digital camera is the megapixel (MP) count. Unfortunately, because of the gross numbers involved (millions) much more is made of it than there should be. Surely you've heard it, "this camera has 2 million more pixels than that camera." If it were dollars we were talking about, fine, but in a digital image, it's just dots. In reality, when printed, the image from a 6MP camera is almost indistinguishable from that of an 8MP camera. The latter is only 10 to 12% larger on each side when printed. If you crop the image, for example to 8x10 or 5x7, you lose that. If you print on 8x10 or smaller, it makes no difference at all. It suffices to say that, in a given price range, today, the sensors from all dSLRs are about on par with one another.
Sensor Type: Sensors are available in two types today. CCD & CMOS. They are basically two different ways to make a photo sensitive digital device. Neither is clearly superior to the other. Each claims advantages over the other. The fact remains that both are widely used in today's digital market and both can meet the needs and demands of any digital photographer.
Sensor Size: Here we refer to the physical dimensions of the sensor and how it compares to the 35mm frame size. All dSLRs with the exception of two (as of 12/2005) use sensors that are smaller than a 35mm frame. Most of these have crop factors of 1.5x or 1.6x and some have a crop factor of 2x. Now that this has been mentioned, we should clear up a common misconception. The crop factor is sometimes referred to as a "lens multiplier" or a "focal length conversion". Regardless of the name, the smaller sensor does not change or add to the focal length of a lens. That is a physical characteristic of the lens. What is actually happening is that the sensor, since it is smaller than a 35mm frame, is cropping or ignoring the image edges that the lens produces. This makes it "seem" like a longer lens. Realize, however, that while this may be neat for the long lenses it is a problem for the wide angle lens. For more details on this, feel free to search the forums as it is beyond the scope of the article. So again here, all cameras in the sub $3,000 price range (as of 12/2005) have a crop factor and they are about equal.
ISO Sensitivity Range: The sensitivity of a digital sensor has been equated to the sensitivity ratings of film. This is actually quite good as it is a preset standard and it is something many are familiar with already. The International Organization for Standardization or as it is more commonly known, ISO, sets all sorts of international standards. The acronym "ISO" is derived from the Greek "Isos" or "equal". It is not an acronym for the name. As you can imagine, each country, based on language, would have a different acronym. So in the interest of "standardization" we get ISO as the worldwide acronym. ISO sets standards for photography in the film sensitivity area. The range of sensitivity that the camera can handle gives you an idea of the ability of the sensor to work in differing light. Most cameras have a good range. They start at ISO 100 or 200 and range up to ISO 1600 or higher. In general the lower the ISO rating the less noise (equivalent of film grain) you get in the image. The reality is that today's bodies have noise almost non-existent at or below ISO 400. All dSLRs start below ISO 400. The other side is the maximum. Again the higher the maximum the better, but in reality, most photographers rarely use ISO 1600 because the digital noise is obvious. However, to be fair, ISO 1600 film is also quite grainy. So, in short, most dSLRs have ample ISO range for the vast majority of photographers.
Image stabilization: While only one dSLR has image stabilization (IS) functionality built into the camera itself (as of 12/2005), it is worth mentioning. All other manufacturers put the IS capability into specific lenses. Image stabilization is a system that helps eliminate the problems associated with camera shake. This basically allows you to take pictures at slower shutter speeds and still get sharp results. This is helps a great deal with ambient light photography when not using a flash. Each manufacturer has its trademark name for IS, but the end result is similar, sharper pictures.
White Balance: All light has some color tonality to it and is categorized using a Kelvin (K) temperature scale. For example, sunlight has a different color tone than does florescent bulbs. Your eyes can adjust for the variations in the color of the light sources around you so that white is neutral, ie no color cast. Your camera cannot do this. That is where White Balance (WB) comes in. By setting the WB according to the light source, you can eliminate any color cast in your images. Most digital cameras today give you certain presets. Tungsten (common light bulb), florescent, sunlight and shade are common ones. Some cameras allow you to set a WB preset using a white subject or reference. Other cameras have the ability to set the K temperature to any K temperature value. Either one of these options gives you ultimate control and allows you to get accurate color in almost any light. To sum it up, common WB settings (sunlight, cloudy, shade, incandescent, etc) is good. Preset white balance using a reference, is better. Ability to select specific K WB temperatures is even better.
Minimum and Maximum Shutter Speeds: This refers to the fastest (shortest time) and slowest (longest time) shutter speeds the camera (or more precisely the shutter mechanism) can attain. These speeds are actually fractions of a second. So when you see 500 on the display it is referring to 1/500s. When looking at the maximum, the faster the shutter speed the better. The faster the shutter, the more likely you are to freeze any motion. However, in practice, one will rarely need anything near the maximum most dSLRs have today which is 1/4000s. In fact, you will find that in most cases you will usually be below 1/1000 or 1/2000 s. When looking at the minimum you will see full second amounts. In most cases it will be 30s followed by the term "bulb". The bulb setting is one that allows the photographer to shoot with exposures of any length. So long as the shutter release is held down, the camera will leave the shutter open. This is something that is used, most commonly, for night photography.
Built-in Flash: Most photographers, regardless of ability, are familiar with the idea behind the flash. A built in flash is very convenient. What many may not be aware of is how to differentiate one from another. The Guide Number (GN) for electronic flash defines its strength. This number allows you to calculate the maximum distance, for a given ISO sensitivity, that a flash can expose correctly. This GN is divided by the f-stop to get the distance. For example, if the GN is 80ft at ISO 100 then, at f/4, then the maximum distance you can be from the subject to properly illuminate it is 20ft. If you shot at f/10 it would be 8ft. If you take a great deal of photos that will require flash, and you do not plan on or like carrying a dedicated flash unit, then a built in flash is key. The higher the GN for the flash the better. However, be careful because not all GNs are equal. If the ISO quoted is not the same between two specifications then you need to apply some conversion. When the ISO sensitivity doubles, the GN changes by a factor of, approximately, 1.4. When the ISO is cut in half, the guide number changes by a factor of, approximately 0.7. For example, a GN of 100ft at ISO 100 is equal to a GN of 140ft at ISO 200 or a GN of 196ft at ISO 400.
External flash & Flash Sync: All dSLRs today have a hot shoe for mounting external or dedicated flash units. This typically sits above the lens on top of the viewfinder. These dedicated flash units vary in power and capability, but that is independent of the camera body. What is important is the maximum flash sync speed. Without getting into a huge amount of detail, this is the maximum shutter speed the camera can use that will permit synchronization with the flash unit. If you go above that speed, you run the risk of have one section of the frame darker than the others. With this, the higher the sync speed, the better. A good speed now is 1/180s and better would be 1/250s. Be aware, however, that some manufacturers say that there is no maximum, in other words it will sync at all speeds. This is usually only true when using their proprietary, current, flash technology. However, you should still consider the flash sync speed posted in the specs. One benefit to higher speeds is the better flexibility when using the flash as a fill light. This is done to lessen harsh shadows, for example. The faster the sync speed, the more useful the flash can be in fill situations when used outdoors. Another benefit is when shooting using other flash systems like studio flash units. The higher the shutter speed limit, the better you ability to lessen motion blur. This is particularly helpful when photographing children.
Depth of Field Preview: This is a feature most dSLRs have today. Few people use it. It is useful for letting you preview how the photo will look using the lens settings in place when you shoot the photo. When you press a button, the lens aperture is set to what it will be to take the photo. It will change the Depth of Field (DoF) you see in the viewfinder. Well some may ask doesn't the camera let you see this anyway? Isn't that the whole point of an SLR? Well yes and no. Yes the camera uses the actual photo lens to display the image in the viewfinder but it does it at the maximum aperture of the lens. That is done to keep the viewfinder as bright as possible which will aid in focusing and composition. The camera will shoot at the aperture that you or the camera determines to be necessary. The DoF button simply lets you check that the DoF is good by setting the lens' aperture to what it will be when you take the photo. With this, be certain the DoF preview is someplace that is comfortable for you to use. It is a really useful tool, when used.
Exposure modes: There are four common exposure modes most dSLRs have. They are Aperture priority, Shutter priority, Automatic and Manual modes. In the first three the camera's meter determines the proper exposure. How it is applied varies. In Aperture Priority mode, the photographer set the aperture they desire. The camera then sets the shutter speed to get the right exposure. In Shutter Priority mode, the photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera, in turn sets the aperture. In Automatic (Program) mode, the camera sets both shutter and aperture. The last mode, Manual, the photographer determines both shutter and aperture. In addition to these basic modes, there are certain options that some cameras have. They are quite helpful, particularly to beginning photographers. These typically include a Portraiture, Landscape, Sports and Macro mode. Some go into others like Night and/or indoor modes. What these do is basically "bias" the camera settings to get certain results. For example, Sports mode will keep the shutter speed as high as possible to freeze action. The Landscape mode will keep the aperture small (large number) to get more of the image in sharp focus. Eventually, if you have the inclination, you will likely bypass these, however, for casual quick shots where you do not want to set up a great deal these preset modes help a great deal.
Storage types: Compact Flash (CF) or Secure Digital (SD) are the two memory cards commonly in use today. For the most part, there is little difference in performance. The big difference right now seems to be capacity. The CF cards come in capacities as high as 8GB while SD cards max out at about 1GB. While this is a huge difference, most casual photographers will rarely use 1GB cards at this time. To give you an idea a 1GB card will fit over 350 8MP JPG images. This number of shots will likely more than enough for most. On the other hand, SD cards are smaller. The size difference is not really a big deal to most because most already feel CF cards are small enough.
Viewfinder Specs: These specs seem confusing and meaningless but should be looked at. Magnification, Eyepoint and Coverage are the three numbers you tend to see. Coverage is the percentage of the image that will be captured by the sensor visible in the viewfinder. In most dSLRs this is less than 100%. Again, most people ask "wasn't that the point of an SLR?" Yes but a 100% viewfinder is expensive to make. Hence they are usually found only in the top of the line cameras. The higher the coverage the easier it is to compose precisely. Magnification is how large the image in the viewfinder is when compared to the naked eye. This varies with the lens on the camera, however, most specs are based on using a 50mm lens. This is usually a number smaller than one. A 1x magnification would mean that the image in the viewfinder was just like looking at it with the naked eye. Again, here the higher the better, however, larger magnifications typically mean smaller coverage. The last is eyepoint. This is most critical for photographers with glasses. This refers to how far you can hold the camera from your eye and still see the whole images a data in the viewfinder. Here again, the larger the better. In general, the order of importance should be Coverage then Magnification and, lastly, Eyepoint. The only exception to this is with glasses. With those, Eyepoint becomes more important.
Viewfinder Information: This is the information displayed to the photographer when looking through the viewfinder. It is an important option to have and something that is easy for you to see and understand. Minimally you should see the following for the photo you are composing. Exposure Mode indicator, Focus Indicator, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Shot count or countdown, some sort of exposure meter, ISO sensitivity and a Flash Ready indicator. How the different manufacturers displays this will vary but they all include this. Some include some additional information. Ultimately how this is displayed is a matter of taste but make certain it is easy for you to understand or see.
LCD Size: Much is made about the size of the LCD on digital cameras. Don't get me wrong, having a good sized LCD is nice, but it is for reasons most don't consider. The biggest myth, "a bigger screen gives you better previews". I can't tell you how misleading this is. Even a 2.5" LCD is worthless as a display device to determine more than the most basic composition and the most obvious focus problems. The displays are simply not precise enough. The display on a dSLR is used to quickly review images for composition and basic lighting issues. For example, did you get everything in the shot? Are the shadows too strong? Was the subject completely blurred because of motion? etc. Another common use is to review the Histogram. This is simply a graph showing how the brightness of image is distributed. The last use is to set menu options or to perform common tasks like formatting cards etc. With all of these a larger display makes life easier.
USB and/or Firewire (IEEE 1394) ports: These are ports used to connect your camera to a computer or other device. The most common today is the USB port. The main issue to consider here is speed. USB has various standards and today's USB 2.0 is the faster option. If your computer has a USB 2.0 port, then this is something you can look for. Having said that, today, more and more users tend to have dedicated memory card readers on their computers. This makes the likelihood of connecting your camera to the computer smaller and thus USB connections on the cameras less necessary.
Metering Options: This refers to the most common metering methods. These are spot, center weighted and complete frame metering. Spot metering is the most precise of the options. In essence it determines exposure based on a spot you decide. This is usually less than 3% of the frame. Center weighted is the next most precise. It determines exposure by paying more attention to the center of the frame vs. the rest of the composition. The idea being your subject is there. The most general method is complete frame. This method takes the entire frame into account and determines exposure based on a set parameters. The last option has different names given to it by manufacturers but, ultimately, it is simply full frame metering.
Battery Type: This, today has come down to two options. They use Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium Ion batteries. Currently most use the lithium cells. The big advantage is battery power and size. Lithium Ion batteries can be smaller and can accommodate high capacities. The downside to them is price. Lithium Ion batteries are more expensive which sometimes can be pricey if you plan on having second or third batteries.
Build: The build refers to how the body feels. Rigidity and balance are important. Better builds will take more every day use than lower quality builds. While weight is important for some users, realize this may come at the cost of sturdiness.
Dimensions & Weight: This is something that can come into play but has more to do with personal taste. For example, lighter bodies are great to carry but will feel awkward when you put a longer, heavier lens on the camera. Another example is dimensions. A larger camera body might be more comfortable for people with larger hands while a physically smaller package might be easier to handle for smaller hands. It is something to consider, however, the point is smaller and lighter is not always better.
AF System: This varies with each manufacturer. Many times you hear people refer to focus speed and this or that manufacturer having the fastest AF speed. Any AF system is good in the hands of a person that knows how to use his/her system. What differences may be important are focus sensor positions, number of sensors and AF options.
Image Formats: Three types of image formats have become mainstream in digital photography. Two of those are industry/computer standards. JPG (pronounced jay-peg) and TIFF are those two. The last is an image format that is proprietary to each manufacturer and those are RAW files. The two most common today in dSLRs are JPG and RAW. JPG files are compressed photographic files that are ready to go right out of the camera. They are "processed", so to say, by the camera. RAW files need to be translated first into something the PC can manipulate and then it is ready for output. In short, you process the RAW files. I feel most photographers are just fine working with JPG files. However many want the creative latitude offered by RAW files. Unfortunately this discussion is beyond the scope of this article. For the purposes of a camera choice, all dSLRs offer JPG and RAW files, so this will not be a decision point.
Ergonomics: This is a difficult on to cover but I mention it simply to bring it to your attention when purchasing a camera. With ergonomics I am referring to how easy the camera is to operate for you from a physical standpoint. For example, are the button sizes comfortable? Are the icons clear? Are the dials easy to access? Are the shooting parameters (aperture, shutter, ISO, etc.) easy to change? Are the buttons used to navigate menus comfortable? Is the grip comfortable? Is the shutter release in the right position? Unfortunately, in today's day and age, internet purchasing hampers the ability to "put your hands" on the camera so to say. So many times you have to rely on others. Ultimately, ask if that is your only option, however, if you can get your hands on a camera. Ultimately, this is something that you will be using for some time. The more comfortable it is, the more likely you are to use the camera.
Convenience Features: This is another commonly overlooked set of issues. With these I mean functionality that aids in the day-to-day use of the camera. For example, the histogram display which is a graphical representation of exposure. While all cameras have them they are displayed in different ways. Some are smaller than others, some are superimposed, etc. Some of the features that help in the day-to-day are: Automatic rotation of images that are shot vertically with the camera. The ability to zoom into the image on the LCD display is sometimes helpful to check focus. Custom setup storage to store common options help you by storing settings for differing conditions. LCD display of shooting data such as exposure settings helps you see what changes you can apply to get your desired effects. Highlight warning display tells you about potentially blown out highlights of the image.
Optional Accessories: I had to separate this out this way because options abound and it would be impractical to cover every single one. There are a multitude of accessories out there for cameras. For the case of this discussion, I will not consider a lens an accessory. What I will include are things like, battery expansion & vertical grip units, AC Adapters for the camera, remote control units and viewfinder accessories. Of course there are many others. These all provide advantages and more usability, however, some are quite pricey. Do some research, see if these options exist. Are they something you might use? For example, and battery expansion pack option allows for adding a second battery to the camera so as to extend battery life. In some cases they add a vertical shutter release. If you go to places where a second battery would help and you have limited access to power, this may be critical. You may want a vertical shutter release. In short, look into these options as well when making your decision.
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Price while obvious and not really a feature, it is worth mentioning for two reasons. First, it differentiates the cameras in this segment. Second, it is a significant investment.
With respect to the first point, many of the features listed here are available on many or all SLRs to some degree. However, realize that a $5,000 camera and a $1,000 camera cannot be compared head to head. The main reason is not the sensor. It is a range of details that come into play. Amongst those is build quality, convenience features, and performance/speed.
On the second point, since the price is high, it is not common for people to change dSLR cameras yearly. Your decision is one you will work with for some time. Spending a little time reading this can help.
Sensor Megapixels: This is the single most commonly quoted spec in a digital camera is the megapixel (MP) count. Unfortunately, because of the gross numbers involved (millions) much more is made of it than there should be. Surely you've heard it, "this camera has 2 million more pixels than that camera." If it were dollars we were talking about, fine, but in a digital image, it's just dots. In reality, when printed, the image from a 6MP camera is almost indistinguishable from that of an 8MP camera. The latter is only 10 to 12% larger on each side when printed. If you crop the image, for example to 8x10 or 5x7, you lose that. If you print on 8x10 or smaller, it makes no difference at all. It suffices to say that, in a given price range, today, the sensors from all dSLRs are about on par with one another.
Sensor Type: Sensors are available in two types today. CCD & CMOS. They are basically two different ways to make a photo sensitive digital device. Neither is clearly superior to the other. Each claims advantages over the other. The fact remains that both are widely used in today's digital market and both can meet the needs and demands of any digital photographer.
Sensor Size: Here we refer to the physical dimensions of the sensor and how it compares to the 35mm frame size. All dSLRs with the exception of two (as of 12/2005) use sensors that are smaller than a 35mm frame. Most of these have crop factors of 1.5x or 1.6x and some have a crop factor of 2x. Now that this has been mentioned, we should clear up a common misconception. The crop factor is sometimes referred to as a "lens multiplier" or a "focal length conversion". Regardless of the name, the smaller sensor does not change or add to the focal length of a lens. That is a physical characteristic of the lens. What is actually happening is that the sensor, since it is smaller than a 35mm frame, is cropping or ignoring the image edges that the lens produces. This makes it "seem" like a longer lens. Realize, however, that while this may be neat for the long lenses it is a problem for the wide angle lens. For more details on this, feel free to search the forums as it is beyond the scope of the article. So again here, all cameras in the sub $3,000 price range (as of 12/2005) have a crop factor and they are about equal.
ISO Sensitivity Range: The sensitivity of a digital sensor has been equated to the sensitivity ratings of film. This is actually quite good as it is a preset standard and it is something many are familiar with already. The International Organization for Standardization or as it is more commonly known, ISO, sets all sorts of international standards. The acronym "ISO" is derived from the Greek "Isos" or "equal". It is not an acronym for the name. As you can imagine, each country, based on language, would have a different acronym. So in the interest of "standardization" we get ISO as the worldwide acronym. ISO sets standards for photography in the film sensitivity area. The range of sensitivity that the camera can handle gives you an idea of the ability of the sensor to work in differing light. Most cameras have a good range. They start at ISO 100 or 200 and range up to ISO 1600 or higher. In general the lower the ISO rating the less noise (equivalent of film grain) you get in the image. The reality is that today's bodies have noise almost non-existent at or below ISO 400. All dSLRs start below ISO 400. The other side is the maximum. Again the higher the maximum the better, but in reality, most photographers rarely use ISO 1600 because the digital noise is obvious. However, to be fair, ISO 1600 film is also quite grainy. So, in short, most dSLRs have ample ISO range for the vast majority of photographers.
Image stabilization: While only one dSLR has image stabilization (IS) functionality built into the camera itself (as of 12/2005), it is worth mentioning. All other manufacturers put the IS capability into specific lenses. Image stabilization is a system that helps eliminate the problems associated with camera shake. This basically allows you to take pictures at slower shutter speeds and still get sharp results. This is helps a great deal with ambient light photography when not using a flash. Each manufacturer has its trademark name for IS, but the end result is similar, sharper pictures.
White Balance: All light has some color tonality to it and is categorized using a Kelvin (K) temperature scale. For example, sunlight has a different color tone than does florescent bulbs. Your eyes can adjust for the variations in the color of the light sources around you so that white is neutral, ie no color cast. Your camera cannot do this. That is where White Balance (WB) comes in. By setting the WB according to the light source, you can eliminate any color cast in your images. Most digital cameras today give you certain presets. Tungsten (common light bulb), florescent, sunlight and shade are common ones. Some cameras allow you to set a WB preset using a white subject or reference. Other cameras have the ability to set the K temperature to any K temperature value. Either one of these options gives you ultimate control and allows you to get accurate color in almost any light. To sum it up, common WB settings (sunlight, cloudy, shade, incandescent, etc) is good. Preset white balance using a reference, is better. Ability to select specific K WB temperatures is even better.
Minimum and Maximum Shutter Speeds: This refers to the fastest (shortest time) and slowest (longest time) shutter speeds the camera (or more precisely the shutter mechanism) can attain. These speeds are actually fractions of a second. So when you see 500 on the display it is referring to 1/500s. When looking at the maximum, the faster the shutter speed the better. The faster the shutter, the more likely you are to freeze any motion. However, in practice, one will rarely need anything near the maximum most dSLRs have today which is 1/4000s. In fact, you will find that in most cases you will usually be below 1/1000 or 1/2000 s. When looking at the minimum you will see full second amounts. In most cases it will be 30s followed by the term "bulb". The bulb setting is one that allows the photographer to shoot with exposures of any length. So long as the shutter release is held down, the camera will leave the shutter open. This is something that is used, most commonly, for night photography.
Built-in Flash: Most photographers, regardless of ability, are familiar with the idea behind the flash. A built in flash is very convenient. What many may not be aware of is how to differentiate one from another. The Guide Number (GN) for electronic flash defines its strength. This number allows you to calculate the maximum distance, for a given ISO sensitivity, that a flash can expose correctly. This GN is divided by the f-stop to get the distance. For example, if the GN is 80ft at ISO 100 then, at f/4, then the maximum distance you can be from the subject to properly illuminate it is 20ft. If you shot at f/10 it would be 8ft. If you take a great deal of photos that will require flash, and you do not plan on or like carrying a dedicated flash unit, then a built in flash is key. The higher the GN for the flash the better. However, be careful because not all GNs are equal. If the ISO quoted is not the same between two specifications then you need to apply some conversion. When the ISO sensitivity doubles, the GN changes by a factor of, approximately, 1.4. When the ISO is cut in half, the guide number changes by a factor of, approximately 0.7. For example, a GN of 100ft at ISO 100 is equal to a GN of 140ft at ISO 200 or a GN of 196ft at ISO 400.
External flash & Flash Sync: All dSLRs today have a hot shoe for mounting external or dedicated flash units. This typically sits above the lens on top of the viewfinder. These dedicated flash units vary in power and capability, but that is independent of the camera body. What is important is the maximum flash sync speed. Without getting into a huge amount of detail, this is the maximum shutter speed the camera can use that will permit synchronization with the flash unit. If you go above that speed, you run the risk of have one section of the frame darker than the others. With this, the higher the sync speed, the better. A good speed now is 1/180s and better would be 1/250s. Be aware, however, that some manufacturers say that there is no maximum, in other words it will sync at all speeds. This is usually only true when using their proprietary, current, flash technology. However, you should still consider the flash sync speed posted in the specs. One benefit to higher speeds is the better flexibility when using the flash as a fill light. This is done to lessen harsh shadows, for example. The faster the sync speed, the more useful the flash can be in fill situations when used outdoors. Another benefit is when shooting using other flash systems like studio flash units. The higher the shutter speed limit, the better you ability to lessen motion blur. This is particularly helpful when photographing children.
Depth of Field Preview: This is a feature most dSLRs have today. Few people use it. It is useful for letting you preview how the photo will look using the lens settings in place when you shoot the photo. When you press a button, the lens aperture is set to what it will be to take the photo. It will change the Depth of Field (DoF) you see in the viewfinder. Well some may ask doesn't the camera let you see this anyway? Isn't that the whole point of an SLR? Well yes and no. Yes the camera uses the actual photo lens to display the image in the viewfinder but it does it at the maximum aperture of the lens. That is done to keep the viewfinder as bright as possible which will aid in focusing and composition. The camera will shoot at the aperture that you or the camera determines to be necessary. The DoF button simply lets you check that the DoF is good by setting the lens' aperture to what it will be when you take the photo. With this, be certain the DoF preview is someplace that is comfortable for you to use. It is a really useful tool, when used.
Exposure modes: There are four common exposure modes most dSLRs have. They are Aperture priority, Shutter priority, Automatic and Manual modes. In the first three the camera's meter determines the proper exposure. How it is applied varies. In Aperture Priority mode, the photographer set the aperture they desire. The camera then sets the shutter speed to get the right exposure. In Shutter Priority mode, the photographer sets the shutter speed and the camera, in turn sets the aperture. In Automatic (Program) mode, the camera sets both shutter and aperture. The last mode, Manual, the photographer determines both shutter and aperture. In addition to these basic modes, there are certain options that some cameras have. They are quite helpful, particularly to beginning photographers. These typically include a Portraiture, Landscape, Sports and Macro mode. Some go into others like Night and/or indoor modes. What these do is basically "bias" the camera settings to get certain results. For example, Sports mode will keep the shutter speed as high as possible to freeze action. The Landscape mode will keep the aperture small (large number) to get more of the image in sharp focus. Eventually, if you have the inclination, you will likely bypass these, however, for casual quick shots where you do not want to set up a great deal these preset modes help a great deal.
Storage types: Compact Flash (CF) or Secure Digital (SD) are the two memory cards commonly in use today. For the most part, there is little difference in performance. The big difference right now seems to be capacity. The CF cards come in capacities as high as 8GB while SD cards max out at about 1GB. While this is a huge difference, most casual photographers will rarely use 1GB cards at this time. To give you an idea a 1GB card will fit over 350 8MP JPG images. This number of shots will likely more than enough for most. On the other hand, SD cards are smaller. The size difference is not really a big deal to most because most already feel CF cards are small enough.
Viewfinder Specs: These specs seem confusing and meaningless but should be looked at. Magnification, Eyepoint and Coverage are the three numbers you tend to see. Coverage is the percentage of the image that will be captured by the sensor visible in the viewfinder. In most dSLRs this is less than 100%. Again, most people ask "wasn't that the point of an SLR?" Yes but a 100% viewfinder is expensive to make. Hence they are usually found only in the top of the line cameras. The higher the coverage the easier it is to compose precisely. Magnification is how large the image in the viewfinder is when compared to the naked eye. This varies with the lens on the camera, however, most specs are based on using a 50mm lens. This is usually a number smaller than one. A 1x magnification would mean that the image in the viewfinder was just like looking at it with the naked eye. Again, here the higher the better, however, larger magnifications typically mean smaller coverage. The last is eyepoint. This is most critical for photographers with glasses. This refers to how far you can hold the camera from your eye and still see the whole images a data in the viewfinder. Here again, the larger the better. In general, the order of importance should be Coverage then Magnification and, lastly, Eyepoint. The only exception to this is with glasses. With those, Eyepoint becomes more important.
Viewfinder Information: This is the information displayed to the photographer when looking through the viewfinder. It is an important option to have and something that is easy for you to see and understand. Minimally you should see the following for the photo you are composing. Exposure Mode indicator, Focus Indicator, Shutter Speed, Aperture, Shot count or countdown, some sort of exposure meter, ISO sensitivity and a Flash Ready indicator. How the different manufacturers displays this will vary but they all include this. Some include some additional information. Ultimately how this is displayed is a matter of taste but make certain it is easy for you to understand or see.
LCD Size: Much is made about the size of the LCD on digital cameras. Don't get me wrong, having a good sized LCD is nice, but it is for reasons most don't consider. The biggest myth, "a bigger screen gives you better previews". I can't tell you how misleading this is. Even a 2.5" LCD is worthless as a display device to determine more than the most basic composition and the most obvious focus problems. The displays are simply not precise enough. The display on a dSLR is used to quickly review images for composition and basic lighting issues. For example, did you get everything in the shot? Are the shadows too strong? Was the subject completely blurred because of motion? etc. Another common use is to review the Histogram. This is simply a graph showing how the brightness of image is distributed. The last use is to set menu options or to perform common tasks like formatting cards etc. With all of these a larger display makes life easier.
USB and/or Firewire (IEEE 1394) ports: These are ports used to connect your camera to a computer or other device. The most common today is the USB port. The main issue to consider here is speed. USB has various standards and today's USB 2.0 is the faster option. If your computer has a USB 2.0 port, then this is something you can look for. Having said that, today, more and more users tend to have dedicated memory card readers on their computers. This makes the likelihood of connecting your camera to the computer smaller and thus USB connections on the cameras less necessary.
Metering Options: This refers to the most common metering methods. These are spot, center weighted and complete frame metering. Spot metering is the most precise of the options. In essence it determines exposure based on a spot you decide. This is usually less than 3% of the frame. Center weighted is the next most precise. It determines exposure by paying more attention to the center of the frame vs. the rest of the composition. The idea being your subject is there. The most general method is complete frame. This method takes the entire frame into account and determines exposure based on a set parameters. The last option has different names given to it by manufacturers but, ultimately, it is simply full frame metering.
Battery Type: This, today has come down to two options. They use Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) or Lithium Ion batteries. Currently most use the lithium cells. The big advantage is battery power and size. Lithium Ion batteries can be smaller and can accommodate high capacities. The downside to them is price. Lithium Ion batteries are more expensive which sometimes can be pricey if you plan on having second or third batteries.
Build: The build refers to how the body feels. Rigidity and balance are important. Better builds will take more every day use than lower quality builds. While weight is important for some users, realize this may come at the cost of sturdiness.
Dimensions & Weight: This is something that can come into play but has more to do with personal taste. For example, lighter bodies are great to carry but will feel awkward when you put a longer, heavier lens on the camera. Another example is dimensions. A larger camera body might be more comfortable for people with larger hands while a physically smaller package might be easier to handle for smaller hands. It is something to consider, however, the point is smaller and lighter is not always better.
AF System: This varies with each manufacturer. Many times you hear people refer to focus speed and this or that manufacturer having the fastest AF speed. Any AF system is good in the hands of a person that knows how to use his/her system. What differences may be important are focus sensor positions, number of sensors and AF options.
Image Formats: Three types of image formats have become mainstream in digital photography. Two of those are industry/computer standards. JPG (pronounced jay-peg) and TIFF are those two. The last is an image format that is proprietary to each manufacturer and those are RAW files. The two most common today in dSLRs are JPG and RAW. JPG files are compressed photographic files that are ready to go right out of the camera. They are "processed", so to say, by the camera. RAW files need to be translated first into something the PC can manipulate and then it is ready for output. In short, you process the RAW files. I feel most photographers are just fine working with JPG files. However many want the creative latitude offered by RAW files. Unfortunately this discussion is beyond the scope of this article. For the purposes of a camera choice, all dSLRs offer JPG and RAW files, so this will not be a decision point.
Ergonomics: This is a difficult on to cover but I mention it simply to bring it to your attention when purchasing a camera. With ergonomics I am referring to how easy the camera is to operate for you from a physical standpoint. For example, are the button sizes comfortable? Are the icons clear? Are the dials easy to access? Are the shooting parameters (aperture, shutter, ISO, etc.) easy to change? Are the buttons used to navigate menus comfortable? Is the grip comfortable? Is the shutter release in the right position? Unfortunately, in today's day and age, internet purchasing hampers the ability to "put your hands" on the camera so to say. So many times you have to rely on others. Ultimately, ask if that is your only option, however, if you can get your hands on a camera. Ultimately, this is something that you will be using for some time. The more comfortable it is, the more likely you are to use the camera.
Convenience Features: This is another commonly overlooked set of issues. With these I mean functionality that aids in the day-to-day use of the camera. For example, the histogram display which is a graphical representation of exposure. While all cameras have them they are displayed in different ways. Some are smaller than others, some are superimposed, etc. Some of the features that help in the day-to-day are: Automatic rotation of images that are shot vertically with the camera. The ability to zoom into the image on the LCD display is sometimes helpful to check focus. Custom setup storage to store common options help you by storing settings for differing conditions. LCD display of shooting data such as exposure settings helps you see what changes you can apply to get your desired effects. Highlight warning display tells you about potentially blown out highlights of the image.
Optional Accessories: I had to separate this out this way because options abound and it would be impractical to cover every single one. There are a multitude of accessories out there for cameras. For the case of this discussion, I will not consider a lens an accessory. What I will include are things like, battery expansion & vertical grip units, AC Adapters for the camera, remote control units and viewfinder accessories. Of course there are many others. These all provide advantages and more usability, however, some are quite pricey. Do some research, see if these options exist. Are they something you might use? For example, and battery expansion pack option allows for adding a second battery to the camera so as to extend battery life. In some cases they add a vertical shutter release. If you go to places where a second battery would help and you have limited access to power, this may be critical. You may want a vertical shutter release. In short, look into these options as well when making your decision.
http://www.phototakers.com/articles/articles/37.html
Kodak Easyshare C533 digital camera
If you're in the market for a low-priced, consumer-level digital camera, you already know you aren't going to find top-of-the-line features. At best, your goal probably will be to find an average digital camera with a below-average price, and Kodak's Easyshare C533 comes pretty close to fitting the bill.
You'll find 5 megapixels of resolution with the C533, which is less than most newer digital cameras but is enough for making high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches (when shot under optimum lighting conditions). For the most part, image quality is good with the C533, especially compared to other digital cameras in this price range. You'll also have some noise in images and some focus problems on occasion -- especially with photos shot in low-light conditions -- but the unit works well for an entry-level digital camera.
The C533 includes a 3X optical zoom lens, which works well and is an average zoom lens for today's digital cameras. The C533 also performs surprisingly well when shooting close-ups.
Response times for the C533 are about what you'd expect for a budget-priced camera. Our tests showed you can shoot your first photo about 5 seconds after pressing the power button, which is disappointing. However, you won't notice shutter lag with the C533, and shot-to-shot delays range from 1-3 seconds, both of which are good response times for a model in this price range.
The LCD is a bit smaller than most newer models, measuring 1.8 inches, but it's bright and sharp, especially for a sub-$150 digital camera. You might have some problems seeing the LCD in bright sunlight, but because the C533 includes an optical viewfinder, you have a second option for framing photos.
The C533 is a little bigger than ultra-thin models, measuring about 1.4 inches in thickness, but it still should fit in a large pocket.
You won't find significant manual-control features with the C533, but this model is aimed at beginning photographers wanting point-and-shoot simplicity. The C533 lives up to the "Easyshare" part of its name, allowing users to easily store, share, and organize photos. Because this model can run from two AA batteries and includes 16MB of internal memory, a truly budget-conscious beginning photographer could operate the camera with minimal added expense.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/kodak-easyshare-c533-digital-camera-review.htm
You'll find 5 megapixels of resolution with the C533, which is less than most newer digital cameras but is enough for making high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches (when shot under optimum lighting conditions). For the most part, image quality is good with the C533, especially compared to other digital cameras in this price range. You'll also have some noise in images and some focus problems on occasion -- especially with photos shot in low-light conditions -- but the unit works well for an entry-level digital camera.
The C533 includes a 3X optical zoom lens, which works well and is an average zoom lens for today's digital cameras. The C533 also performs surprisingly well when shooting close-ups.
Response times for the C533 are about what you'd expect for a budget-priced camera. Our tests showed you can shoot your first photo about 5 seconds after pressing the power button, which is disappointing. However, you won't notice shutter lag with the C533, and shot-to-shot delays range from 1-3 seconds, both of which are good response times for a model in this price range.
The LCD is a bit smaller than most newer models, measuring 1.8 inches, but it's bright and sharp, especially for a sub-$150 digital camera. You might have some problems seeing the LCD in bright sunlight, but because the C533 includes an optical viewfinder, you have a second option for framing photos.
The C533 is a little bigger than ultra-thin models, measuring about 1.4 inches in thickness, but it still should fit in a large pocket.
You won't find significant manual-control features with the C533, but this model is aimed at beginning photographers wanting point-and-shoot simplicity. The C533 lives up to the "Easyshare" part of its name, allowing users to easily store, share, and organize photos. Because this model can run from two AA batteries and includes 16MB of internal memory, a truly budget-conscious beginning photographer could operate the camera with minimal added expense.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/kodak-easyshare-c533-digital-camera-review.htm
Olympus SP-510 UZ
Digital camera manufacturers always look to set their models apart in a highly competitive market. Olympus has achieved that goal by including a 10X optical zoom lens in a sub-$300 model, the SP-510 UZ.
That 10X optical zoom lens makes an amazing difference in the types of photographs you can take, especially nature shots. One slight problem with the SP-510 UZ occurs with its digital image stabilization (IS), which attempts to correct camera shake problems with software after you shoot the image. More successful IS technologies use hardware to negate camera shake as you shoot the image. With the SP-510 UZ's 10X optical zoom lens, camera shake is naturally going to occur when you have the lens fully extended, and the digital IS technology isn't as effective at preventing blurry photos as other IS techniques. The digital IS does a good job much of the time, but it definitely isn't perfect.
Outside of some blurred photos, the SP-510 UZ's image quality is very good. The unit's 7.1 megapixels of resolution will allow high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches -- or even 11x14 inches when taken under ideal lighting conditions. The high resolution and large zoom lens make a nice combination for a sub-$300 model.
Beyond those two features, the SP-510 UZ has some nice options. You'll find that the SP-510 UZ is very easy to use; Olympus has even included a built-in Shooting Guide to help you create the perfect photo. Response times are about average. Startup takes about 3 seconds, while shot-to-shot delays range from 2 to 4 seconds. Shutter lag can be a big problem with large zoom lenses, but the SP-510 UZ's shutter lag is better than expected at a maximum of one-half second. The unit's continuous-shot mode is below average, allowing for only two to four photos at one time.
One disappointment is with the 2.5-inch LCD, which should be sharper. It also can be tough to view in bright sunlight. Unfortunately, the SP-510 UZ offers only an electronic viewfinder (EVF), which won't appeal to everyone as it can be difficult to use in low light and it goes blank during continuous-shot mode.
The SP-510 UZ has a few features aimed at more experienced photographers, including several manual-control features -- although you can use this model as a fully automatic camera, too. Olympus even offers a couple of conversion lenses for the SP-510 UZ that provide wide-angle and telephoto capabilities. (We're not sure why you'd need a telephoto converter lens for a camera with a 10X optical zoom lens, but it's available.) Still, image quality could be better with the SP-510 UZ, and the digital IS doesn't completely cure the inherent problem of camera shake with a large zoom lens.
One other thing: The SP-510 UZ isn't going to fit in your pocket. It's a large camera body -- 2.8 inches thick -- with a big lens housing, which will cause some people to cross this model off their lists. Despite its occasional problems, finding a sub-$300 digital camera with good resolution and a 10X optical zoom lens is pretty rare, so, for the right person, the SP-510 UZ will be a great choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/olympus-sp-510-uz-review.htm
That 10X optical zoom lens makes an amazing difference in the types of photographs you can take, especially nature shots. One slight problem with the SP-510 UZ occurs with its digital image stabilization (IS), which attempts to correct camera shake problems with software after you shoot the image. More successful IS technologies use hardware to negate camera shake as you shoot the image. With the SP-510 UZ's 10X optical zoom lens, camera shake is naturally going to occur when you have the lens fully extended, and the digital IS technology isn't as effective at preventing blurry photos as other IS techniques. The digital IS does a good job much of the time, but it definitely isn't perfect.
Outside of some blurred photos, the SP-510 UZ's image quality is very good. The unit's 7.1 megapixels of resolution will allow high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches -- or even 11x14 inches when taken under ideal lighting conditions. The high resolution and large zoom lens make a nice combination for a sub-$300 model.
Beyond those two features, the SP-510 UZ has some nice options. You'll find that the SP-510 UZ is very easy to use; Olympus has even included a built-in Shooting Guide to help you create the perfect photo. Response times are about average. Startup takes about 3 seconds, while shot-to-shot delays range from 2 to 4 seconds. Shutter lag can be a big problem with large zoom lenses, but the SP-510 UZ's shutter lag is better than expected at a maximum of one-half second. The unit's continuous-shot mode is below average, allowing for only two to four photos at one time.
One disappointment is with the 2.5-inch LCD, which should be sharper. It also can be tough to view in bright sunlight. Unfortunately, the SP-510 UZ offers only an electronic viewfinder (EVF), which won't appeal to everyone as it can be difficult to use in low light and it goes blank during continuous-shot mode.
The SP-510 UZ has a few features aimed at more experienced photographers, including several manual-control features -- although you can use this model as a fully automatic camera, too. Olympus even offers a couple of conversion lenses for the SP-510 UZ that provide wide-angle and telephoto capabilities. (We're not sure why you'd need a telephoto converter lens for a camera with a 10X optical zoom lens, but it's available.) Still, image quality could be better with the SP-510 UZ, and the digital IS doesn't completely cure the inherent problem of camera shake with a large zoom lens.
One other thing: The SP-510 UZ isn't going to fit in your pocket. It's a large camera body -- 2.8 inches thick -- with a big lens housing, which will cause some people to cross this model off their lists. Despite its occasional problems, finding a sub-$300 digital camera with good resolution and a 10X optical zoom lens is pretty rare, so, for the right person, the SP-510 UZ will be a great choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/olympus-sp-510-uz-review.htm
Olympus SP-510 UZ
Digital camera manufacturers always look to set their models apart in a highly competitive market. Olympus has achieved that goal by including a 10X optical zoom lens in a sub-$300 model, the SP-510 UZ.
That 10X optical zoom lens makes an amazing difference in the types of photographs you can take, especially nature shots. One slight problem with the SP-510 UZ occurs with its digital image stabilization (IS), which attempts to correct camera shake problems with software after you shoot the image. More successful IS technologies use hardware to negate camera shake as you shoot the image. With the SP-510 UZ's 10X optical zoom lens, camera shake is naturally going to occur when you have the lens fully extended, and the digital IS technology isn't as effective at preventing blurry photos as other IS techniques. The digital IS does a good job much of the time, but it definitely isn't perfect.
Outside of some blurred photos, the SP-510 UZ's image quality is very good. The unit's 7.1 megapixels of resolution will allow high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches -- or even 11x14 inches when taken under ideal lighting conditions. The high resolution and large zoom lens make a nice combination for a sub-$300 model.
Beyond those two features, the SP-510 UZ has some nice options. You'll find that the SP-510 UZ is very easy to use; Olympus has even included a built-in Shooting Guide to help you create the perfect photo. Response times are about average. Startup takes about 3 seconds, while shot-to-shot delays range from 2 to 4 seconds. Shutter lag can be a big problem with large zoom lenses, but the SP-510 UZ's shutter lag is better than expected at a maximum of one-half second. The unit's continuous-shot mode is below average, allowing for only two to four photos at one time.
One disappointment is with the 2.5-inch LCD, which should be sharper. It also can be tough to view in bright sunlight. Unfortunately, the SP-510 UZ offers only an electronic viewfinder (EVF), which won't appeal to everyone as it can be difficult to use in low light and it goes blank during continuous-shot mode.
The SP-510 UZ has a few features aimed at more experienced photographers, including several manual-control features -- although you can use this model as a fully automatic camera, too. Olympus even offers a couple of conversion lenses for the SP-510 UZ that provide wide-angle and telephoto capabilities. (We're not sure why you'd need a telephoto converter lens for a camera with a 10X optical zoom lens, but it's available.) Still, image quality could be better with the SP-510 UZ, and the digital IS doesn't completely cure the inherent problem of camera shake with a large zoom lens.
One other thing: The SP-510 UZ isn't going to fit in your pocket. It's a large camera body -- 2.8 inches thick -- with a big lens housing, which will cause some people to cross this model off their lists. Despite its occasional problems, finding a sub-$300 digital camera with good resolution and a 10X optical zoom lens is pretty rare, so, for the right person, the SP-510 UZ will be a great choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/olympus-sp-510-uz-review.htm
That 10X optical zoom lens makes an amazing difference in the types of photographs you can take, especially nature shots. One slight problem with the SP-510 UZ occurs with its digital image stabilization (IS), which attempts to correct camera shake problems with software after you shoot the image. More successful IS technologies use hardware to negate camera shake as you shoot the image. With the SP-510 UZ's 10X optical zoom lens, camera shake is naturally going to occur when you have the lens fully extended, and the digital IS technology isn't as effective at preventing blurry photos as other IS techniques. The digital IS does a good job much of the time, but it definitely isn't perfect.
Outside of some blurred photos, the SP-510 UZ's image quality is very good. The unit's 7.1 megapixels of resolution will allow high-quality prints up to 8x10 inches -- or even 11x14 inches when taken under ideal lighting conditions. The high resolution and large zoom lens make a nice combination for a sub-$300 model.
Beyond those two features, the SP-510 UZ has some nice options. You'll find that the SP-510 UZ is very easy to use; Olympus has even included a built-in Shooting Guide to help you create the perfect photo. Response times are about average. Startup takes about 3 seconds, while shot-to-shot delays range from 2 to 4 seconds. Shutter lag can be a big problem with large zoom lenses, but the SP-510 UZ's shutter lag is better than expected at a maximum of one-half second. The unit's continuous-shot mode is below average, allowing for only two to four photos at one time.
One disappointment is with the 2.5-inch LCD, which should be sharper. It also can be tough to view in bright sunlight. Unfortunately, the SP-510 UZ offers only an electronic viewfinder (EVF), which won't appeal to everyone as it can be difficult to use in low light and it goes blank during continuous-shot mode.
The SP-510 UZ has a few features aimed at more experienced photographers, including several manual-control features -- although you can use this model as a fully automatic camera, too. Olympus even offers a couple of conversion lenses for the SP-510 UZ that provide wide-angle and telephoto capabilities. (We're not sure why you'd need a telephoto converter lens for a camera with a 10X optical zoom lens, but it's available.) Still, image quality could be better with the SP-510 UZ, and the digital IS doesn't completely cure the inherent problem of camera shake with a large zoom lens.
One other thing: The SP-510 UZ isn't going to fit in your pocket. It's a large camera body -- 2.8 inches thick -- with a big lens housing, which will cause some people to cross this model off their lists. Despite its occasional problems, finding a sub-$300 digital camera with good resolution and a 10X optical zoom lens is pretty rare, so, for the right person, the SP-510 UZ will be a great choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/olympus-sp-510-uz-review.htm
Nikon Coolpix S10
Segmented digital cameras that allow the lens to swivel separately from the body have always been able to capture the attention of customers. Swiveling lens digital cameras look cool and allow you to easily make odd-angle shots. Nikon was among the first companies to create a swiveling lens camera in the late 1990s, and it continues that tradition with the new Coolpix S10 model. Because of the swiveling capabilities, the Coolpix S10 carries a higher price tag than most digital cameras with similar specifications, but the Coolpix S10 is a pretty powerful model.
This model's 10X optical zoom lens is impressive. Because the swiveling camera body can leave you holding this model in some awkward positions, it is especially important for the Coolpix S10 to carry good image-stabilization technology, and Nikon has included its own impressive hardware-based Vibration Reduction (VR) technology. You will rarely have a blurry photo caused by camera shake with the Coolpix S10, even when the 10X zoom lens is fully extended.
The Coolpix S10 offers 6.0 megapixels of resolution, which is plenty for high-quality prints of 8x10 inches. You will find quite a few digital cameras in this price range with more resolution, but 6.0 megapixels is as much resolution as most consumer-level photographers will ever need. Photo quality is outstanding outdoors and is more than adequate in low-lighting conditions, thanks in part to the VR.
The Coolpix S10's 2.5-inch LCD is bright and sharp in all lighting conditions. You have to use the LCD to frame photos, as there is no optical viewfinder. Response times for the Coolpix S10 are very good. You can shoot your first photo about 2 seconds after pressing the power button. Shutter lag can be a problem with long zoom lenses, and this model will have occasional shutter delays ranging from 0.5 to 1 second. Shot-to-shot delays with the flash never exceed 3 seconds, which is a very good measurement. However, shot-to-shot delays without the flash typically fall in the 1 to 1.5 second range, which is longer than we'd like to see.
This model includes 16MB of internal memory, which is handy, but you will need to purchase a memory card immediately. We'd also recommend purchasing a second rechargeable battery with the Coolpix S10 because its battery life is below average. You'll need to include costs for a battery and a memory card with your initial cost estimates for this model.
The Coolpix S10 measures only 1.6 inches in thickness when not in use, and it will fit in a large pocket. It is smaller than average for a 10X zoom camera. When you rotate the lens to 90 degrees of the body, the unit measures about 2.5 inches in thickness. Overall, the Coolpix S10 is a decent model that has some cool features. Shooting with the rotating lens will take some practice, but if you're someone who likes shooting self-portraits and other odd-angle shots, the Coolpix S10 will deliver. The starting price for this model is a little high, but it carries enough above-average features to make it a very good choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/nikon-coolpix-s10-review.htm
This model's 10X optical zoom lens is impressive. Because the swiveling camera body can leave you holding this model in some awkward positions, it is especially important for the Coolpix S10 to carry good image-stabilization technology, and Nikon has included its own impressive hardware-based Vibration Reduction (VR) technology. You will rarely have a blurry photo caused by camera shake with the Coolpix S10, even when the 10X zoom lens is fully extended.
The Coolpix S10 offers 6.0 megapixels of resolution, which is plenty for high-quality prints of 8x10 inches. You will find quite a few digital cameras in this price range with more resolution, but 6.0 megapixels is as much resolution as most consumer-level photographers will ever need. Photo quality is outstanding outdoors and is more than adequate in low-lighting conditions, thanks in part to the VR.
The Coolpix S10's 2.5-inch LCD is bright and sharp in all lighting conditions. You have to use the LCD to frame photos, as there is no optical viewfinder. Response times for the Coolpix S10 are very good. You can shoot your first photo about 2 seconds after pressing the power button. Shutter lag can be a problem with long zoom lenses, and this model will have occasional shutter delays ranging from 0.5 to 1 second. Shot-to-shot delays with the flash never exceed 3 seconds, which is a very good measurement. However, shot-to-shot delays without the flash typically fall in the 1 to 1.5 second range, which is longer than we'd like to see.
This model includes 16MB of internal memory, which is handy, but you will need to purchase a memory card immediately. We'd also recommend purchasing a second rechargeable battery with the Coolpix S10 because its battery life is below average. You'll need to include costs for a battery and a memory card with your initial cost estimates for this model.
The Coolpix S10 measures only 1.6 inches in thickness when not in use, and it will fit in a large pocket. It is smaller than average for a 10X zoom camera. When you rotate the lens to 90 degrees of the body, the unit measures about 2.5 inches in thickness. Overall, the Coolpix S10 is a decent model that has some cool features. Shooting with the rotating lens will take some practice, but if you're someone who likes shooting self-portraits and other odd-angle shots, the Coolpix S10 will deliver. The starting price for this model is a little high, but it carries enough above-average features to make it a very good choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/nikon-coolpix-s10-review.htm
Nikon D40
If you're ready to step up to an advanced-level digital camera, but you're not ready to pay $1,000 or more for one, Nikon might have a solution for you. Nikon calls its D40 model an "entry-level" digital single-lens reflex (SLR) model. It's not anywhere near the most powerful digital camera you'll find on the market, but for an intermediate photographer seeking the look and feel of a professional-level camera, the D40 delivers a great deal for less than $600.
Nikon sells the D40 both body-only and as a "kit," which includes a rechargeable battery and a basic lens that offers a zoom of about 3X and limited wide-angle capabilities. You can use some other Nikon lenses with the D40, but you'll have to buy them separately. One note: The D40 camera body doesn't include a focus motor, so any auto-focus capabilities must be built into the lens; such lenses are far more expensive than manual-focus lenses. You'll also need to purchase a memory card before using the D40.
The D40's response times are excellent. You can shoot your first photo a fraction of a second after pressing the power button. Shutter lag is not noticeable most of the time. We found shot-to-shot delays to be less than 1 second in most cases, although testing suggested that delays can extend to a few seconds when shooting with a flash over a long distance.
Unlike some digital SLR models, the D40 offers an automatic mode. You also can choose from several scene modes, or you can fully control the photo by using manual settings. This camera is a good option for those who are looking to learn more about photography because of its many manual-setting options.
The D40's 6.1 megapixels of resolution will be plenty for many photographers, but its pixel count certainly lags behind those of other similarly priced models. Most of those lower-priced models that offer more resolution, however, cannot match the image quality and sharpness that the D40 provides. You'll receive sharp, vibrant photos with this model, regardless of the lighting conditions. The D40's noise reduction setting improves photo quality in low-light conditions. We'll take a high-quality 6.1-megapixel output over an average-quality 8-megapixel output every time.
Even though you cannot use it to frame photos, the D40's 2.5-inch liquid crystal display (LCD) is very sharp and bright. It's great for reviewing your shots or for scrolling through the D40's various menus. Unlike most digital SLR models, the D40 isn't confusing to learn to use; Nikon has made a sensible menu structure with this model. We appreciated the D40's optical viewfinder, which Nikon says shows about 95 percent of the frame. It also has a focus slider.
The D40 weighs in at around 1.5 pounds with all of its necessary components. It is a comfortable model to use, with a good handgrip. It certainly won't fit in your pocket, but it is noticeably smaller and lighter than most digital SLR models. Considering its size and feature set, you almost can consider the D40 as a "lite" version of an advanced digital SLR camera. Professional and experienced photographers will almost certainly want more power, but if you're an intermediate photographer looking to try an advanced digital camera for the first time, the D40 is a smart choice.
http://products.howstuffworks.com/nikon-d40-review.htm
Nikon sells the D40 both body-only and as a "kit," which includes a rechargeable battery and a basic lens that offers a zoom of about 3X and limited wide-angle capabilities. You can use some other Nikon lenses with the D40, but you'll have to buy them separately. One note: The D40 camera body doesn't include a focus motor, so any auto-focus capabilities must be built into the lens; such lenses are far more expensive than manual-focus lenses. You'll also need to purchase a memory card before using the D40.
The D40's response times are excellent. You can shoot your first photo a fraction of a second after pressing the power button. Shutter lag is not noticeable most of the time. We found shot-to-shot delays to be less than 1 second in most cases, although testing suggested that delays can extend to a few seconds when shooting with a flash over a long distance.
Unlike some digital SLR models, the D40 offers an automatic mode. You also can choose from several scene modes, or you can fully control the photo by using manual settings. This camera is a good option for those who are looking to learn more about photography because of its many manual-setting options.
The D40's 6.1 megapixels of resolution will be plenty for many photographers, but its pixel count certainly lags behind those of other similarly priced models. Most of those lower-priced models that offer more resolution, however, cannot match the image quality and sharpness that the D40 provides. You'll receive sharp, vibrant photos with this model, regardless of the lighting conditions. The D40's noise reduction setting improves photo quality in low-light conditions. We'll take a high-quality 6.1-megapixel output over an average-quality 8-megapixel output every time.
Even though you cannot use it to frame photos, the D40's 2.5-inch liquid crystal display (LCD) is very sharp and bright. It's great for reviewing your shots or for scrolling through the D40's various menus. Unlike most digital SLR models, the D40 isn't confusing to learn to use; Nikon has made a sensible menu structure with this model. We appreciated the D40's optical viewfinder, which Nikon says shows about 95 percent of the frame. It also has a focus slider.
The D40 weighs in at around 1.5 pounds with all of its necessary components. It is a comfortable model to use, with a good handgrip. It certainly won't fit in your pocket, but it is noticeably smaller and lighter than most digital SLR models. Considering its size and feature set, you almost can consider the D40 as a "lite" version of an advanced digital SLR camera. Professional and experienced photographers will almost certainly want more power, but if you're an intermediate photographer looking to try an advanced digital camera for the first time, the D40 is a smart choice.
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