There is a plethora of fine, solid quality compact digital cameras on the market today. And there are lots of camera models to choose from. So much so that it can be confusing for all but the most dedicated hobbyist. So which camera models are the cream of the crop? That depends a lot on what you intend to use the camera for, but we have listed a few models here that we think would make a fine purchase in most cases.
First of all, here are the features that we like to see in compact digital cameras. They are features that are most often appreciated by consumers in real world situations. Here is our list of required features:
* At least 3 megapixels
* Costs under $300
* Has at least a 3X optical zoom
* Can run on AA batteries
* Produces high quality, sharp photos
So with that criteria in mind, when you look over the compact digital camera field there are three models that meet or exceed these requirements and are often found on the top of most compact digital camera reviews by both consumer websites and consumers themselves. And here they are:
1. The Canon Powershot A510 is an incredible camera for the money. It comes in at the least expensive price point in our little group at $170. It's a 3.2 megapixel camera which will do just fine for anything but the largest enlargements, and produces incredibly sharp and vivid photos. It sports a 4X optical zoom which provides a zoom range that is roughly equivalent to 35-140mm in 35mm. It also runs on AA batteries and can be expected to provide around 300 shots per set of batteries. And it has a movie mode w/sound which is a nice extra.
2. The Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W5 is a 5 megapixel camera that features an extra large LCD screen at 2.4 in. which can be very nice for those that can use a little more screen size. It's optical zoom is adequate providing a 35mm focal length equivalent of 38-114mm. It also allows manual control of the exposure settings for those that like to go their own way. Another noteworthy mention is that this Sony manages power very efficiently and you can expect to get almost 400 shots before replacing the batteries in this unit. It costs $275.
3. The Kodak EasyShare Z700 is another fine compact digital camera with 4 megapixels that boasts an optical zoom of 5X which translates to an effective 35mm lens length of about 35-175mm. It also uses AA batteries and comes with it's own charger, although it uses more power than the other two cameras listed here and can be expected to go through a set of batteries in around 200 shots. This Kodak model comes in around $240.
Any serious listing of compact digital camera reviews should include all three of these models and rate them highly overall. You choice should be based on what your individual needs and uses will be however, but all of them should provide years of solid, quality service.
http://www.cryosphere.f2s.com/articles/cameras/compact-digital-camera-reviews-before-you-buy.html
Tuesday, November 13, 2007
3 Alternative Tripod Tips for Steady Photographs
The tripod is one cumbersome accessory, and in many cases, it's just one of those items you don't want to lug along with you each and every time you're planning on taking pictures. However, even without the tripod, there are several ways to improve your photographing results, if you pay attention to your surroundings.
The Lazy Photographers Tripod
Let's say you're heading out for nice stroll, digital camera in your pocket, and you really don't want to carry that bulky heavy tripod. The first consideration is of course how to properly steady your hands while taking pictures. Most people use their hands when taking pictures, so it's not the end of the world if you have to. However, there is a right way and a wrong way to do it.
Even if you have steady hands like that of a surgeon, you'll need a little assistance when it comes to holding that camera perfectly still. For your best results, always hold the camera with both hands. Your left hand should not be grasping the camera, rather it should be supporting it, while your right hand has a solid grip on it. Use your chest to brace your arms and steady your hands.
When you're ready to snap the picture, don't press the shutter button quickly as this will actually cause the camera to shake slightly as you click it. Try squeezing the button slowly. As you squeeze you are entering a two-stage process. The first stage will lock in your focus and exposure and as you continue to squeeze down on the shutter button, the picture will be taken.
The Spur of the Moment Tripod
Depending on the environment you are in, you can use your surroundings to help steady the camera. If there's a nearby railing, use it as your steadying device. If the surface is smooth enough, you can place the camera directly on the railing, gently but firmly gripping the camera as you squeeze off your next shot.
Even using a nearby wall or fence to lean against can help create a more secure way of steadying your camera while manually pressing the shutter button. Of course you'll want to make sure you're the only one using the prop to steady yourself. If someone were to come along just at the right moment and bump the railing or perhaps simply backup against it, you might get a sudden jarring motion just as you take your picture, which will produce an unwanted result.
The Less Cumbersome Tripod Alternative
Sometimes the surface of your possible props may not be as steady or smooth as preferred. In these cases, you can use a beanbag. Some beanbags are actually specifically threaded just for this purpose, allowing you to securely attach your camera to it. The nice thing about the beanbag is it's flexibility, which allows you to adapt it to almost any surface providing you with a more stable setting for your camera.
The most important thing to remember is to take along that camera everywhere you go. Tripod or not, the world is full of wonderful and exciting things that you can capture on film or memory disc, if you take it with you always.
The Lazy Photographers Tripod
Let's say you're heading out for nice stroll, digital camera in your pocket, and you really don't want to carry that bulky heavy tripod. The first consideration is of course how to properly steady your hands while taking pictures. Most people use their hands when taking pictures, so it's not the end of the world if you have to. However, there is a right way and a wrong way to do it.
Even if you have steady hands like that of a surgeon, you'll need a little assistance when it comes to holding that camera perfectly still. For your best results, always hold the camera with both hands. Your left hand should not be grasping the camera, rather it should be supporting it, while your right hand has a solid grip on it. Use your chest to brace your arms and steady your hands.
When you're ready to snap the picture, don't press the shutter button quickly as this will actually cause the camera to shake slightly as you click it. Try squeezing the button slowly. As you squeeze you are entering a two-stage process. The first stage will lock in your focus and exposure and as you continue to squeeze down on the shutter button, the picture will be taken.
The Spur of the Moment Tripod
Depending on the environment you are in, you can use your surroundings to help steady the camera. If there's a nearby railing, use it as your steadying device. If the surface is smooth enough, you can place the camera directly on the railing, gently but firmly gripping the camera as you squeeze off your next shot.
Even using a nearby wall or fence to lean against can help create a more secure way of steadying your camera while manually pressing the shutter button. Of course you'll want to make sure you're the only one using the prop to steady yourself. If someone were to come along just at the right moment and bump the railing or perhaps simply backup against it, you might get a sudden jarring motion just as you take your picture, which will produce an unwanted result.
The Less Cumbersome Tripod Alternative
Sometimes the surface of your possible props may not be as steady or smooth as preferred. In these cases, you can use a beanbag. Some beanbags are actually specifically threaded just for this purpose, allowing you to securely attach your camera to it. The nice thing about the beanbag is it's flexibility, which allows you to adapt it to almost any surface providing you with a more stable setting for your camera.
The most important thing to remember is to take along that camera everywhere you go. Tripod or not, the world is full of wonderful and exciting things that you can capture on film or memory disc, if you take it with you always.
About the Author
Kimberly Shannon enjoys digital photography and graphic arts as a hobby and part time business. You can read more articles for digital camera tips at www.digitaltipsweekly.com.
Basic Digital Photography II:Getting the Light Source Right
Lighting is the single most critical factor in determining the quality of any photograph. Although with digital cameras you can edit after the fact, such features are limited and it is more effective to assure that you get the best exposure when taking the shot. The amount of light on the image sensor, or exposure, is determined by the opening/closing of the aperture, the length of time that the shutter is open, and the amount of light present. For the purposes of this article, the discussion will be limited to working with and enhancing the light present for the shot.
When the light in a situation is not sufficient or when you want to create a different effect with highlights and shadows, an internal flash or external light source can be used. The happy news for the photography novice is that digital cameras have an auto flash feature in which the camera decides when lighting is insufficient and will activate the flash automatically. One of the most important things to remember about using flash photography for the novice is that all cameras have a flash range. Beyond that range, generally no more than 14 to 15 feet, the flash is not effective. Flash is most often used when shooting indoors where there is generally less light. One of the pitfalls of using flash when photographing people and animals however is the infamous "red eye" effect which is created when the light bounces off of the back of the retina of the subject. This can be reduced by having subjects avoid looking directly into the camera or using the "red eye reduction" mode. This mode simply emits a tiny flash prior to taking the picture to help the pupil contract prior to the full flash. Glare is another common problem encountered when using flash photography but can easily be eliminated by being sure not to point the camera directly into any shiny object such as a mirror or glass. Most digital cameras allow the user to have control of the flash function giving them the ability to disable it for use in situations where flash is not allowed or the user is striving to achieve a particular look in the picture. It also allows the user to set the flash so that it is always on, allowing the flash to be used even when the camera senses adequate lighting.
Flash can be used to deal with some lighting related problems outdoors as well. Sunlight can create shadows and cause the subject to appear dark and difficult to discern with the brighter, sunlit area around them. One option is to pose your subject in the shade. Taking photographs in the shade often provides images with better/truer color definition, no shadows, and subjects free from squinting. When in the sunlight, use of the flash can be particularly helpful in balancing the light and reducing shadows. The fill-flash mode can be useful in any situation where the subject will be darker than the surrounding background whether they are shaded by a hat, a tree, or simply their own facial features. However, fill-flash mode should be used only when the subject is within 6 feet. Beyond this distance full power mode will be necessary.
Use of an external or auxiliary flash can give the user the control necessary to adjust lighting and create special effects. Just as the intensity of a light source influences the exposure in a picture, the direction of the light source can change an image through shadows and highlights. A flash can be attached to a camera with either a "cold shoe" or a "hot shoe". A cold shoe is merely a plastic shoe that allows the flash to be physically attached to the camera but does not have any contacts that allow the camera to communicate or coordinate the flash activity. With a hot shoe, users can attach a flash sync cord, allowing them to move the flash away from the camera and choose the direction of the lighting. In addition, a hot shoe attachment allows the flash to be controlled by the camera's flash settings. With the external flash, there are various modes to control the flash function.
* The TTL setting allows the camera and flash to determine the best exposure based upon the focal length of the lens. This is possible when the camera and the flash are of the same brand.
* The Stroboscopic setting can produce multiple flashes within a single exposure to create special effects.
* The Manual setting allows the user to set the flash for full, half, or quarter power.
* The Auto setting allows the flash to determine the best exposure independently. This is used most often when the camera and flash are not of the same brand.
There are two primary types of lighting used in photography. A hard light is created from a single, bright source of light and it produces shadows, highlights and pronounced contrast in the resulting image. Soft light on the other hand is very diffuse, making highlights and shadows more subtle. Hard light is preferable when detail and distinct color is desired, but soft light is best for a softer image. Light from a single source can be diffused in a number of ways. The flash can be covered with a thin material such as tissue or wax paper or it can be bounced off of another surface, such as the ceiling or a wall, rather than being shown directly onto the subject. Bouncing the light is obviously not effective outdoors and the distance of the reflecting structure should be no more than 6-8 feet. The color of the surface reflecting the light must also be considered. Any color on the surface is generally reflected onto the subject. For this reason, white is generally preferred although professionals use black to absorb light and darken shadows and shiny materials are used to harden the light.
As mentioned previously, the direction of lighting can also greatly influence the characteristics of a photograph. The use of an external flash gives the user the option of moving the light source in relation to the subject. Front lighting is the most common. When wanting to emphasize the detail of the subject, front lighting is the best choice. However, it can create a rather harsh image with shadows in the background, muted colors in the foreground, and red eye. The use of fill flash and red eye reduction when using front lighting can help to alleviate some of the negative effects, while diffusing the light can reduce harshness. Back lighting can produce a very dramatic photograph but, if too bright, can cause the subject to appear only as a silhouette unless the object is transparent. Reducing the brightness of the light source and using fill flash to brighten the shadowed areas can improve the quality of a picture with back lighting. Providing lighting from an angle rather than directly from the front or back can be beneficial in either of these lighting situations.
Lighting can also be directed from the side, the top, and from under the subject. Side lighting gives the user the most options as far as angle and the ability to create a wide variety of effects. Side lighting is optimal for creating texture and a sense of depth to a photograph.
For the novice photographer, experimentation is key. Whether diffusing light for softer images, using fill flash outdoors to eliminate shadows, or altering the direction of lighting to create special effects, creating unique, quality images requires practice.
When the light in a situation is not sufficient or when you want to create a different effect with highlights and shadows, an internal flash or external light source can be used. The happy news for the photography novice is that digital cameras have an auto flash feature in which the camera decides when lighting is insufficient and will activate the flash automatically. One of the most important things to remember about using flash photography for the novice is that all cameras have a flash range. Beyond that range, generally no more than 14 to 15 feet, the flash is not effective. Flash is most often used when shooting indoors where there is generally less light. One of the pitfalls of using flash when photographing people and animals however is the infamous "red eye" effect which is created when the light bounces off of the back of the retina of the subject. This can be reduced by having subjects avoid looking directly into the camera or using the "red eye reduction" mode. This mode simply emits a tiny flash prior to taking the picture to help the pupil contract prior to the full flash. Glare is another common problem encountered when using flash photography but can easily be eliminated by being sure not to point the camera directly into any shiny object such as a mirror or glass. Most digital cameras allow the user to have control of the flash function giving them the ability to disable it for use in situations where flash is not allowed or the user is striving to achieve a particular look in the picture. It also allows the user to set the flash so that it is always on, allowing the flash to be used even when the camera senses adequate lighting.
Flash can be used to deal with some lighting related problems outdoors as well. Sunlight can create shadows and cause the subject to appear dark and difficult to discern with the brighter, sunlit area around them. One option is to pose your subject in the shade. Taking photographs in the shade often provides images with better/truer color definition, no shadows, and subjects free from squinting. When in the sunlight, use of the flash can be particularly helpful in balancing the light and reducing shadows. The fill-flash mode can be useful in any situation where the subject will be darker than the surrounding background whether they are shaded by a hat, a tree, or simply their own facial features. However, fill-flash mode should be used only when the subject is within 6 feet. Beyond this distance full power mode will be necessary.
Use of an external or auxiliary flash can give the user the control necessary to adjust lighting and create special effects. Just as the intensity of a light source influences the exposure in a picture, the direction of the light source can change an image through shadows and highlights. A flash can be attached to a camera with either a "cold shoe" or a "hot shoe". A cold shoe is merely a plastic shoe that allows the flash to be physically attached to the camera but does not have any contacts that allow the camera to communicate or coordinate the flash activity. With a hot shoe, users can attach a flash sync cord, allowing them to move the flash away from the camera and choose the direction of the lighting. In addition, a hot shoe attachment allows the flash to be controlled by the camera's flash settings. With the external flash, there are various modes to control the flash function.
* The TTL setting allows the camera and flash to determine the best exposure based upon the focal length of the lens. This is possible when the camera and the flash are of the same brand.
* The Stroboscopic setting can produce multiple flashes within a single exposure to create special effects.
* The Manual setting allows the user to set the flash for full, half, or quarter power.
* The Auto setting allows the flash to determine the best exposure independently. This is used most often when the camera and flash are not of the same brand.
There are two primary types of lighting used in photography. A hard light is created from a single, bright source of light and it produces shadows, highlights and pronounced contrast in the resulting image. Soft light on the other hand is very diffuse, making highlights and shadows more subtle. Hard light is preferable when detail and distinct color is desired, but soft light is best for a softer image. Light from a single source can be diffused in a number of ways. The flash can be covered with a thin material such as tissue or wax paper or it can be bounced off of another surface, such as the ceiling or a wall, rather than being shown directly onto the subject. Bouncing the light is obviously not effective outdoors and the distance of the reflecting structure should be no more than 6-8 feet. The color of the surface reflecting the light must also be considered. Any color on the surface is generally reflected onto the subject. For this reason, white is generally preferred although professionals use black to absorb light and darken shadows and shiny materials are used to harden the light.
As mentioned previously, the direction of lighting can also greatly influence the characteristics of a photograph. The use of an external flash gives the user the option of moving the light source in relation to the subject. Front lighting is the most common. When wanting to emphasize the detail of the subject, front lighting is the best choice. However, it can create a rather harsh image with shadows in the background, muted colors in the foreground, and red eye. The use of fill flash and red eye reduction when using front lighting can help to alleviate some of the negative effects, while diffusing the light can reduce harshness. Back lighting can produce a very dramatic photograph but, if too bright, can cause the subject to appear only as a silhouette unless the object is transparent. Reducing the brightness of the light source and using fill flash to brighten the shadowed areas can improve the quality of a picture with back lighting. Providing lighting from an angle rather than directly from the front or back can be beneficial in either of these lighting situations.
Lighting can also be directed from the side, the top, and from under the subject. Side lighting gives the user the most options as far as angle and the ability to create a wide variety of effects. Side lighting is optimal for creating texture and a sense of depth to a photograph.
For the novice photographer, experimentation is key. Whether diffusing light for softer images, using fill flash outdoors to eliminate shadows, or altering the direction of lighting to create special effects, creating unique, quality images requires practice.
About the Author
Christine Peppler shares information on home electronics products and home entertainment on her site at: www.homemedias.info.
The Secrets of Choosing a Digital Camera Part 1
Size
Small is beautiful. Today's digital cameras are sometimes so small, that they fit into the breast pocket of your shirt easily and are still fully featured so you get the most out of the camera in almost every situation. Just imagine taking a picture of a wonderful sunrise when your are on your morning run or the happy smile of your kids when you pick them up after school. With a small digital camera you don't have to lug around heavy equipment, you are always ready to take the picture of your life.
But too small could be a nightmare for someone with large hands or big fingers. In this case it is not practical and the fingers could cover the lens, the internal flash or could not work the tiny buttons to select the diverse functions, a modern digital camera offers.
A larger, heavier digital camera is useful when you want to do more serious work. Think about taking pictures where the internal flash is disabled and you work with longer shutter speeds. A heavier camera is easier to hold steady and it can better compensate the tine movement when you press the shutter button.
System - Camera Technology
There are many different kinds of cameras on the market today. The consumer has the choice between an ever increasing number of brands, but mainly his decision is based on what he wants to use the camera for and what his past experiences with photography are.
Viewfinder cameras
this is the most simple system on the market. The viewfinder is located in the upper left corner of the camera (seen from the rear) and presents a picture that is slightly offset to what the camera really sees. When you are very close to an object, the difference in view can be dramatic. This type of digital camera works very good for snapshots as well as for most photographic needs of the average person. Disadvantages are the fixed lenses, the lack of influence you can take on the picture (e.g. sharpness, focus, light).
Some more advanced models also use the small LCD monitor as a viewfinder. The advantage here is that the picture you see on the screen is the same that you will take with your camera. You have good control of what you will put into your picture. Disadvantage with his type of display is that you cannot preview the pictures in a brightly lit environment. Taking pictures in brought daylight is sometimes difficult as you try to hold the camera steady and also shade the LCD.
Bridge cameras
this type of camera is more heavyset than the usual compact digital camera. Usually it features a fixed lens with a good zoom factor. Ranging from wide angle to telephoto, you can cover most photographic challenges with these models. They offer a trough the lens view finder, which gives you a correct impression of the photo you are going to take, regardless of focus length. The picture is projected on the CCD chip in the camera and projected on a small monitor that is either inside the camera positioned like on traditional cameras or on the back panel of the camera body.
These cameras are usually more capable of changing photographic parameters and are used by people who want to do more than the occasional snapshot.
Digital SLR (Single Lens Reflex)
this is the most advanced type of digital camera on the market today. It works very similar to traditional SLR cameras, but using the digital process instead of film. You can choose different lenses for every possible purpose. Whether it is a wide angle lens for landscape photography or a small telephoto lens for doing portraits or close-up work. The lenses are interchangeable and you sometimes even get compatible lenses from third party manufactures that are of similar quality, but lower in price. The picture is reflected into the viewfinder via a mirror (this is why its called reflex). When you release the shutter to take the picture, the mirror is moved away, the shutter curtains open and the light is directly sent to the CCD chip. A small LCD screen on the back panel of the camera is used for doing a first check on picture quality and for setting the different features and options of the camera. Digital SLR cameras are usually used by professional photographers and high level enthusiasts.
Memory - Bigger Is Better
The advantage of digital cameras compared to traditional ones is that you can shoot as many pictures as the memory chip allows. Pictures that turned out to be low quality can easily be discarded and again you have room on your memory card to take new pictures. As advantageous as it is, this circumstance leads to taking more pictures than with traditional cameras and as the resolution of the digital cameras increases from year to year, the need for memory increases. Therefore it may be useful to exchange the memory card that came with the camera with a bigger one or having a spare one when going on a longer trip. Below table lists the approximate number of photos that fit on a 128 MB memory card when using the jpg-format:
Resolution Quality Best Good Standard
6 mega pixel 3008x2000 34 70 117
4 mega pixel 2400x1600 51 96 161
1.5 mega pixel 1536x1024 106 173 271
The above quality rating is based on the compression factor of the jpg format (higher compression results in smaller files, but in lower picture quality).
More things to watch out for shoppping or digital camera will be covered in part 2 of this series.
Small is beautiful. Today's digital cameras are sometimes so small, that they fit into the breast pocket of your shirt easily and are still fully featured so you get the most out of the camera in almost every situation. Just imagine taking a picture of a wonderful sunrise when your are on your morning run or the happy smile of your kids when you pick them up after school. With a small digital camera you don't have to lug around heavy equipment, you are always ready to take the picture of your life.
But too small could be a nightmare for someone with large hands or big fingers. In this case it is not practical and the fingers could cover the lens, the internal flash or could not work the tiny buttons to select the diverse functions, a modern digital camera offers.
A larger, heavier digital camera is useful when you want to do more serious work. Think about taking pictures where the internal flash is disabled and you work with longer shutter speeds. A heavier camera is easier to hold steady and it can better compensate the tine movement when you press the shutter button.
System - Camera Technology
There are many different kinds of cameras on the market today. The consumer has the choice between an ever increasing number of brands, but mainly his decision is based on what he wants to use the camera for and what his past experiences with photography are.
Viewfinder cameras
this is the most simple system on the market. The viewfinder is located in the upper left corner of the camera (seen from the rear) and presents a picture that is slightly offset to what the camera really sees. When you are very close to an object, the difference in view can be dramatic. This type of digital camera works very good for snapshots as well as for most photographic needs of the average person. Disadvantages are the fixed lenses, the lack of influence you can take on the picture (e.g. sharpness, focus, light).
Some more advanced models also use the small LCD monitor as a viewfinder. The advantage here is that the picture you see on the screen is the same that you will take with your camera. You have good control of what you will put into your picture. Disadvantage with his type of display is that you cannot preview the pictures in a brightly lit environment. Taking pictures in brought daylight is sometimes difficult as you try to hold the camera steady and also shade the LCD.
Bridge cameras
this type of camera is more heavyset than the usual compact digital camera. Usually it features a fixed lens with a good zoom factor. Ranging from wide angle to telephoto, you can cover most photographic challenges with these models. They offer a trough the lens view finder, which gives you a correct impression of the photo you are going to take, regardless of focus length. The picture is projected on the CCD chip in the camera and projected on a small monitor that is either inside the camera positioned like on traditional cameras or on the back panel of the camera body.
These cameras are usually more capable of changing photographic parameters and are used by people who want to do more than the occasional snapshot.
Digital SLR (Single Lens Reflex)
this is the most advanced type of digital camera on the market today. It works very similar to traditional SLR cameras, but using the digital process instead of film. You can choose different lenses for every possible purpose. Whether it is a wide angle lens for landscape photography or a small telephoto lens for doing portraits or close-up work. The lenses are interchangeable and you sometimes even get compatible lenses from third party manufactures that are of similar quality, but lower in price. The picture is reflected into the viewfinder via a mirror (this is why its called reflex). When you release the shutter to take the picture, the mirror is moved away, the shutter curtains open and the light is directly sent to the CCD chip. A small LCD screen on the back panel of the camera is used for doing a first check on picture quality and for setting the different features and options of the camera. Digital SLR cameras are usually used by professional photographers and high level enthusiasts.
Memory - Bigger Is Better
The advantage of digital cameras compared to traditional ones is that you can shoot as many pictures as the memory chip allows. Pictures that turned out to be low quality can easily be discarded and again you have room on your memory card to take new pictures. As advantageous as it is, this circumstance leads to taking more pictures than with traditional cameras and as the resolution of the digital cameras increases from year to year, the need for memory increases. Therefore it may be useful to exchange the memory card that came with the camera with a bigger one or having a spare one when going on a longer trip. Below table lists the approximate number of photos that fit on a 128 MB memory card when using the jpg-format:
Resolution Quality Best Good Standard
6 mega pixel 3008x2000 34 70 117
4 mega pixel 2400x1600 51 96 161
1.5 mega pixel 1536x1024 106 173 271
The above quality rating is based on the compression factor of the jpg format (higher compression results in smaller files, but in lower picture quality).
More things to watch out for shoppping or digital camera will be covered in part 2 of this series.
About the Author
Tom has spent most of his free time behind cameras of different types. He specializes in close-up work and travel photography. To share his experiences and fascination about digital photography, he has set up www.digitalcameratips.de which covers topics for beginners as well as advanced users of digital cameras.
Basic Understanding of your Digital Camera Flash
Many of us do not think twice about the usage of our digital camera's flash assuming that the camera will use the flash automatically as needed. Flash however can and should be manually set in many scenarios resulting in high quality digital photos.
The most common usage of flash photography is when there is not enough ambient light for example when taking an indoor digital photo in a dark room. There are many other ways in which you can use your digital camera's flash to get high quality digital photos. One such usage is fill-in flash.
Before setting your flash to manual mode and making more efficient usage of it you should know a bit more of the technology and history behind flash photography. Flash photography has been around for more than a century. During the early days of photography flash was implemented as a powder that was literally lit by either fire or electrical current. At that time flash photography was a risky business. Digital cameras today use a safe implementation by utilizing electronic flash tubes that are automatically synchronized with the camera's shutter.
You have two options for using flash with your digital camera. The first option is using the digital camera internal flash. Practically all digital cameras have build-in flash units. Most cameras also allow the usage of an external flash unit. Such flash units can be either mechanically attached to the digital camera or they can be connected to the camera via a cable and mechanically positioned on a tripod or any other mechanism. They are synchronized and controlled by the digital camera. External flash units vary in price and features. They can have different maximum light energy that they can emit and different mechanical capabilities (tilting, skewing).
In automatic flash mode the camera sensors evaluate the amount of ambient light in the scene. The digital camera fires the flash if the amount of ambient light is not high enough. There are limitations to the cameras automatic sensors resulting in either firing the flash when it was not needed or vice versa.
In some scenarios the usage of flash can result in poor digital photos. For example when the object is too close to the digital camera the flash light will be too strong and will wash out the object. Another example is in scenarios where the flash creates unwanted shadows in the digital photo. Yet another example is exaggeration of details such as when shooting a digital photo of an older person the skin wrinkles and imperfections details can be overly detailed.
Digital camera's flash units have a certain effective range. This is a limitation of how much light energy the flash unit can emit. Internal flash units usually have shorter range than external flash units. If the object in the photo is outside of the flash range the flash will not be effective and the object will be dark. On the other hand if the object is too close to the flash unit or the flash unit emits too much energy the object will be washed out. If your object is outside of your flash unit effective range you should turn off the flash and use slow shutter photography preferably with a tripod or another stabilizing mechanism. If your flash units allows the setting of the light energy that will be fired (usually by setting the distance to the object) make sure that it is set right to prevent washed out objects.
In some scenarios there will be enough ambient light to take a digital photo but without the usage of the flash the digital photo quality will be very poor. In such scenario if the camera is left on automatic flash mode it will not fire the flash. For example daytime photography with an object that is shadowed. If the object is wearing a hat it can create shades on the object's face or when the object is lit from the side the object's nose can create shades too. Putting the flash in manual fill-in mode will force the flash to fire. The flash will lit those shadowed areas and prevent the shades in the final digital photo. The object of course must be in effective flash range. Another example is an object that is lit from behind such as when taking a digital photo of an object against a sunset. Without a fill-in flash the photo will likely be just a dark silhouette of the object.
These were some basic concepts behind flash usage. There are many other advanced options for your digital camera flash. For example bounce flash can result in great digital photos in that mode instead of pointing the flash directly at the object it is pointed to some reflecting surface like a wall or a special reflector. The result is more natural light and color rich digital photos.
http://www.cryosphere.f2s.com/articles/cameras/basic-understanding-of-your-digital-camera-flash.html
The most common usage of flash photography is when there is not enough ambient light for example when taking an indoor digital photo in a dark room. There are many other ways in which you can use your digital camera's flash to get high quality digital photos. One such usage is fill-in flash.
Before setting your flash to manual mode and making more efficient usage of it you should know a bit more of the technology and history behind flash photography. Flash photography has been around for more than a century. During the early days of photography flash was implemented as a powder that was literally lit by either fire or electrical current. At that time flash photography was a risky business. Digital cameras today use a safe implementation by utilizing electronic flash tubes that are automatically synchronized with the camera's shutter.
You have two options for using flash with your digital camera. The first option is using the digital camera internal flash. Practically all digital cameras have build-in flash units. Most cameras also allow the usage of an external flash unit. Such flash units can be either mechanically attached to the digital camera or they can be connected to the camera via a cable and mechanically positioned on a tripod or any other mechanism. They are synchronized and controlled by the digital camera. External flash units vary in price and features. They can have different maximum light energy that they can emit and different mechanical capabilities (tilting, skewing).
In automatic flash mode the camera sensors evaluate the amount of ambient light in the scene. The digital camera fires the flash if the amount of ambient light is not high enough. There are limitations to the cameras automatic sensors resulting in either firing the flash when it was not needed or vice versa.
In some scenarios the usage of flash can result in poor digital photos. For example when the object is too close to the digital camera the flash light will be too strong and will wash out the object. Another example is in scenarios where the flash creates unwanted shadows in the digital photo. Yet another example is exaggeration of details such as when shooting a digital photo of an older person the skin wrinkles and imperfections details can be overly detailed.
Digital camera's flash units have a certain effective range. This is a limitation of how much light energy the flash unit can emit. Internal flash units usually have shorter range than external flash units. If the object in the photo is outside of the flash range the flash will not be effective and the object will be dark. On the other hand if the object is too close to the flash unit or the flash unit emits too much energy the object will be washed out. If your object is outside of your flash unit effective range you should turn off the flash and use slow shutter photography preferably with a tripod or another stabilizing mechanism. If your flash units allows the setting of the light energy that will be fired (usually by setting the distance to the object) make sure that it is set right to prevent washed out objects.
In some scenarios there will be enough ambient light to take a digital photo but without the usage of the flash the digital photo quality will be very poor. In such scenario if the camera is left on automatic flash mode it will not fire the flash. For example daytime photography with an object that is shadowed. If the object is wearing a hat it can create shades on the object's face or when the object is lit from the side the object's nose can create shades too. Putting the flash in manual fill-in mode will force the flash to fire. The flash will lit those shadowed areas and prevent the shades in the final digital photo. The object of course must be in effective flash range. Another example is an object that is lit from behind such as when taking a digital photo of an object against a sunset. Without a fill-in flash the photo will likely be just a dark silhouette of the object.
These were some basic concepts behind flash usage. There are many other advanced options for your digital camera flash. For example bounce flash can result in great digital photos in that mode instead of pointing the flash directly at the object it is pointed to some reflecting surface like a wall or a special reflector. The result is more natural light and color rich digital photos.
http://www.cryosphere.f2s.com/articles/cameras/basic-understanding-of-your-digital-camera-flash.html
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